ZZ Motors?

[webpilot]

I was just wondering do you have to break in the motors on zip zaps?I remember having to do that on my 1/10th scale rc electric cars and planes.I didnt know if these were the same way?

[Bad Company]

I never heard of having to do it. Just install and go!

[vtheo]

check out the bit forum on this site, it has lots of info on breaking in motors, lubeing them and other motor stuff. use the search function, its a very cool thing.

[Azimov]

I've heard of this breaking motors in thing before. I'm very skeptical. These small motors shouldn't require a break in period. Particularly the Zip motors which are coreless. I just don't think it's needed.

[rfnagel]

I think that the big thing here is "little" LOL.

The motors are so tiny, that (if they have carbon brushes) a single full-charge run would probably break them in... if they really need it at all.

On larger 1/10 scale RC motors (especially the $$$ high performance ones), the carbon brushes are relatively large, as well as removeable. When buying a new set of brushes, you have to perform a no-load break in period in order to allow the brushes to seat properly against the commutator (i.e. they simply wear down a bit conforming to the shape of the commutator).

This allows for less electrical ressistance between the commutator and brushes, which allows the motor to run stronger and at a higher RPM.

[Azimov]

Originally posted by rfnagel

On larger 1/10 scale RC motors (especially the $$$ high performance ones), the carbon brushes are relatively large, as well as removeable. When buying a new set of brushes, you have to perform a no-load break in period in order to allow the brushes to seat properly against the commutator (i.e. they simply wear down a bit conforming to the shape of the commutator).

This allows for less electrical ressistance between the commutator and brushes, which allows the motor to run stronger and at a higher RPM.

Exactly!!
I think this is a case of the larger scale folks crossing their knowledge over to these micros. A lot of the info is accurate and pertinent. This one, however, is not. rfnagel is right in what he says about seating the brushes on the larger motors. Especially when they have been replaced. But, this does't apply to these micro motors. The tolerances inside are miniscule and meticulously set in manufacture. They have to be. So, breaking them in is really not needed.

[rfnagel]

Originally posted by Azimov
The tolerances inside are miniscule and meticulously set in manufacture. They have to be. So, breaking them in is really not needed.

Exactly my thoughts on the subject.

Speaking of small (and other ZZ stuff), I race my cars mostly on a concrete driveway. As far as tire treads and suspension bars, I see absolutely no difference in handling at all... especially with the red gears and purple motor. Again, I attribute this to the ZZs small size and relative speed (in conjunction with the concrete surface that I race them on).

Now fast forward to the 1/10 scale cars. The suspension, shocks, and tire tread choice on those (especially the dirt models) is an absolute must. I'd hate to see how one of them would run without them LOL.

In a nutshell: size is relative.

[Azimov]

In a nutshell: size is relative.

Yeah, and if I could just get my ole lady to buy that I'd have it made .

Originally posted by Azimov
Yeah, and if I could just get my ole lady to buy that I'd have it made .

LOL!

[webpilot]

Thank you for the advice everyone.
Chris

[Azimov]

I've broken into pager motors before, but never one of these. The brushes aren't carbon. They are really tiny, thin copper strips that touch each side of the commutator. I'd bet the farm these micro motors are the same.

[vtheo]

azimov, there are threads with dismantled motors somewhere on this forum, some are a different design than normal eletric motors

[JackD]

I've never been in a pager or bit motor before. So excuse the silly question. Does a coreless motor have any kind of speed or torque advantage over a motor with a core ?