[Jellis]

I thought it was kind of a toss up between the 2 diffs mening they both had there own set of proplems. I'm a machinist by trade so I didn't have any proplem fixing either diff.

The kyosho diff was easy to fix I fully compressed the spring 40 or 50 times to take some of the tension out. Then I found that armature spacers from a slot car motor are an exact replacement for the thick plastic stock shims and they come in various thicknesses .020",.010", .007", .005" for and almost infinate adjustment. If you have a local slot car track (good luck) they should have them in stock.

The Atomic diff had many more problems 1. Adjuster nut and spring hit axel housing, 2. LR drive hub hit axel in center of hub, 3. Gear very loose on hub ( I havn't fixed this yet), 4. Gear seems to be a different pitch than pinion.

1. I fixed the axel housing by reaming it larger I think a drill bit might crack the housing. Also be carefull to make is just smaller than the bearing diameter so the bearing has a lip to set against. I also changed the aluminum nut to a nylon lock nut that I machined round, Drilled a hole in the side of it and made a slot in the axel housing to adjust it without removing the axel.

2. I machined the LR hub back there was alot of material and this didn't hurt anything

3. I havn't fixed the gear on the hub yet

4. I have been running the gear with the stock pinion and other than a little bit of noise I havn't had any problems but may seem a little bound up even with a good gear lash

I did a back to back test of both diffs last weekend 100 laps each taking out the worst 15 laps for my crappy driving.

The atomic diff was first with an average lap time of 4.79 and a fast lap of 4.41

The kyosho diff was a little faster with an average lap time of 4.61 and a fast lap of 4.23

I know some of this was covered in other posts but you know the saying everyone has an opinion and something something .........