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Unfortunately your Atomic BB does not have ball bearings but it should still be drawing less current than the stock motor and consequently be better with that underpowered LiPo than the stock motor, possibly a little carbon buildup on the commutator nothing that a drop of commutator cleaner and slow low voltage break-in would cure (please no watter). Also it's still a good little motor even without ball bearings for ~$11+shipping.
Yes you will have problems with that LiPo pack, most of the 160 LiPo cells are rated at 5C max, so 5C x 160mAh gives you a max current delivery of 0.8amps, even at 10C it’s only 1.6amps a 160 would need to be rated at 15C minimum to be of much use in a Micro-T. Sure LiPo’s don’t have poly fuses that shut the current down like lithium ions do but there are still limits to the current they can give, especially low current LiPo’s made to be used in cell phones and I-Pods. Add to that the battery cutoff, and every time you overheat/overload the pack you need to give them a break until they recover their voltage. BTW the battery cutoff on the pack is set so low that it’s virtually useless anyway.
I wouldn’t recommend anything less than a 10C continous 250mAh or 15C 200mAh LiPo pack for a Micro-T even the proposed Losi Micro-T LiPo might be a pore choice if it’s not rated for at least short bursts at 20C since it’s only a 180, but then they’re new when it comes to using LiPo’s in small RC cars too. Also you don’t need or necessarily want a battery cutoff in a battery pack itself for an RC car, it does very little good and since it can install a false sense of confidence can in some cases even cause harm, especially if it’s the wrong type. For RC car applications sure it’s nice to have one in the ESC but in a Micro-T it’s hardly needed since all you have to do is remember to stop an charge your battery when it starts to slow down and remember to unplug it when not in use. In my opinion the most important thing to consider when using small or large lithium batteries for RC applications is to invest in a good charger preferably something like the Duratrax Ice or Electrofly Triton if possible since their voltage displays will be more useful than the cutoff, if not at least get a small pocket voltmeter which is also of more practical use than the cutoff since with very little effort and time you would be able to say “yep at 6.5v my car slows down this much so I now know when to charge it.”
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