Ignore this because "frizzen's always gotta say something."
So it looks like you're using brass plate for the added connection? Your Series/Paralell explination are a bit akward, but should be enough to get the point across to new people. What's that spacer looking thing you stuffed in the back of the tub, and how come you didn't install your other battery lead?
Overall it's a pretty good tutorial, though it's a little lacking on the writeup. I probably would add that it's not nessicary to rip all the guts out of the chassis unless you're really afraid of breaking the magnet wire, and that in addition to the chassis mods, it will be important to flip the PCB over for clearance which will require some PCB Cover modifications if you plan to keep one on there.
Charging is probably best done off the TX of a ZZ-M, Oval clone (with 3 batts), or a modified (to work with 3 batts) 4 AA or AAA battery holder like you can pick up at RS. Charge time of around a minute since like always with these cars, you're charging it at WAY over the reccomended capacity.
And I might mention that if you felt like it, while you've got the steering box open, it's not too much more work to give it some suspension travel like a Bit or Zip. It'll give you a little tighter turning radius, which was drasticaly needed atleast on the older generations of MW.
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Trying to quench our need for 1/70 scale speed!
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