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Your end bell has a bearing too, yes?
You seem to have neglected the magnets. Using better magnets will outright add torque to a motor without significant penalty (maybe it adds negligible weight?). This also lets you trade your newly gained torque for more speed by changing the windings on the armature. Neodymium magnets ARE recommended, with some precautions:
You can get more powerful Neo magnets, but as you go up the power scale, their heat tolerances will go down. So the more precisely you know how much heat your setup will generate inside the motor, the better magnets you can get away with. But you’d have to be REAL careful to not operate outside of your estimate; as I said before, too much heat can kill the magnets. However, there ARE Neo magnets that are plenty temperature safe for all your racing needs.
Also, all magnets suffer from a permanant loss of power if they are ever dropped or jarred. This is mostly an installation problem, since the cars are plenty cushioned by suspension and giving materials. But if you are using a custom chassis, jarring collisions may be a concern.
There is also a very cheap source of improved magnets, the Spinbrush. By dissecting a Spinbrush toothbrush you can get at the better magnets inside the motor that powers it.
I don’t know just how much heat sink you are adding, but remember that weight is a factor. Effective use of ventilation can reduce temperature and save you weight. If you can, I suggest mounting a plate of fins on the underside of the car, thermally connected to the motor. It’s probably the ONLY use of ground effects in our scale, using them to draw heat away.
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