soldering
 

Hi i just soldered my antenna back on and my soldering iron looks like its turning brown/ orange color. is this a bad sign? did i do sumthing wrong? btw i just got it today

mwhaha mine is brown too...but i havent even used it that much and ive had it for a couple months..

im pretty sure u just need to clean it with that umm...i forgot what its called...but it this "thing" substance or whtever at radioshack that will keep it clean

how do i jumper sumthing and wat does that mean?

If you tend to have quite a bit of solder left on your iron when it cools the solder can turn a really dull gray to a brown. When you heat it back up the solder should turn its usual shiny self again. Try sponging a little of the excess off before shutting the iron down next time.

the stuff you use on the iron is called "flux"

if you need to ask "how do i jumper something" i would read some books on electronics before attempting to destroy your cars.

The discoloration that occurs is from the resin in the solder oxidizing. It doesn't harm anything.

The best care is to do what hog mentioned, use Flux.

Soldering tips:

1) use a soldering iron stand with a damp sponge. The sponge is used to wipe off excess flux and and solder.
2) You should always tin the tip of the iron with a little solder before soldering components and before you return it to the stand.
3) After you solder a component, wipe the excess solder and resin off of the tip with the sponge, and add a little solder to the tip and return it to the stand.
4) Before soldering the next component, wipe of the solder on the tip and re-tin (repeat steps 2 and 3).
5) When finished soldering, wipe the excess off and re-tin again. Let the iron cool with the solder on the tip. The next time you use the iron, let it heat up and wipe the solder off with the damp sponge, repeat steps 2 and 3.

The trick is to keep the tip clean and always covered with solder. It gets black when resin and solder is left on the tip and burns. The tip should always have a shiny silver surface.

Oh, and a 60/40 rosin core solder is good.

60% tin and 40% lead with the rosin in the core so it does not have to be added during soldering. The resin helps the solder flow onto and into the components being soldered together.

soldering iron
 

can anyone help with what type of soldering iron & solder to use on my bit.never used one,only one way to learn right!

Here's my list of equipment
 

Here's what I use, you dont need it all, but it helps to have as many tools as possible, and this kit runs less than $100 for a ful sodler station, all I need now is a set of clamps to hold my work in place.

Elenco 40w solder station -- $40

This station has a sponge, an on/off switch, nice holder for your hot iron, and a variable "temp" control (all it really does is cut back the current going in to the iron, the iron is a standalone wnad type). This unit is cheapy, but it does hte job and the tip thats included is just about right for working on bits. one tip cut slits intothe sponge, so you can wipe the tip through the slits, makes cleacning easier. I keep mine at about 80% power, its about perfect for working on bits, but you can possibly burn the pcb material at that setting if you take too long. A good solder joint only takes about 2-3 seconds, any longer and somethings amiss.

63/37 fine rosin core solder -- about $4 for a tube of it

Make sure you get as fine solder you can, fine being how thin the wire is. that way you can conrtol the amount going onto your project more easily. Sometimes I flck some of hte solder I use at work, sicne its much finer and makes work so much easier.


copper wick, fine braid -- $3 for 1.5m

This is used to remove solder from contacts, put it between your iron adn hte sodler to remove, when you see hte wick turn silverish, its picked some up.

Weller solder puller -- $9

This is an ESD safe plunger type solder puller. dont use these unless you really know how to use them, its very easy to rip traces with some pullers. But for pulling solder out of holes and such, this is the best answer, period.

Kester ultrapure tip tinner -- forgot price, under $10 though

This is what i use to keep my tips in good shape, i use it before and after soldering session, and after any long breaks whithte iron still on. It cleans and tins the tip at the same time, very nice stuff...its also lead free...at least until you use it for hte first time, then its got a bit o lead...

here's my problem looks like it broke off right about here.scared to work on it but here goes nothin'b1spd :bts: b6way bg825 b45m b38

ouch..
 

You sure that the capacitor is fully intact? if not, you should go to a radiochack or frys (or any seller of electronic components) and buy the proper capacitor. cant read it, my eyes arent that good, but the component shouldnt be more than 4-5 cents. You might have to buy in quantity though. but at that price it will still be rather cheap

should it have little wires coming off each end or something like that. this is my baby in better times:D

yep it should have litle metal contacts on each end, and no parts of the capacitor should be missing. If a corner or contact stayed on the board, then the capacitor is shot.

now make sure you put it the right way, capacitors are polarized (have a + and - side) the striped end is going to the board edge on my car's pcb, if that's of any help.

just figured something out. i layed the capacitor on the board where it broke off and put the clear cover on very carefully the pressure of the cover keeps the capacitor in place, should hold me over til i get the soldering iron and parts. oh yeah, and the nerve to solder it
THANX:D :D :D :D :D