people with modded cars,listen up!
 

O.k seen as you have experiance with modding cars (anybody)

i need to know what order and how to mod my car..

plz help

+I HAVE NO IDEA HOW TO PAINT ZZ'S!

The best way to paint is to take your time. Several light coats of spray paint, then use a tiny brush for detail work.... make sure to mask off anything you don't want painted well. Use masking tape specificaly for this purpose... other tape will allow the paint to bleed through or under. Don't forget to mask off the inside of the windows too. I use Tamiya spray paints... did my s2k with body kit in the GunMetal TS38. check it out:

http://monroeaccess.net/~sjonathan/i..._finnished.jpg

now thats nice!...im really luvin those tinted windows!

do you not use primer?

but anyway ,is this the idea of it

1.

Mask all things thats not wanted for spraying

2.

paint lightly a couple of coats (3?)

4.

take of masking tape

5.

do all the detailed paintings (lights etc) with thin brush..

6.

give a coat of clear coat...

I didnt' use primer, but i'm thinking next time i will, and i'll apply a clear coat as well.


This is what i would recomend:

1. If you have done any body work (filler / styrene), make sure all surfaces are clean and smooth.

2. Mask off all surfaces you don't want to paint (detail work, windows, inside of windows...)

3. Prop the body on something you can turn (such as the top of a 2 liter bottle), so you don't get finger prints on it when you're turning it.

4. Spray on primer. Remember thin coats. Sand with ultra high grit sand paper to even out any imperfections.

5. Spray light coats of paint always in the same direction (left to right or right to left). Hold the can 8-10 inches away from the body. Remember, you don't have to cover the car entirely with the first coat. Make sure to let it dry between coats. 2 thick coats will come out a lot crappier than 10 thin coats. The reason for thin coats is better coverage, more consistant color, and no drips.

6. Remove masking tape from all parts of the body except the windows. Spray with clear coat. Again... thin coats, even coverage, let it dry.

7. Take off the rest of the masking tape and you're done!

kool,thanks...by the way when you said Sand with ultra high grit sand paper to even out any imperfections.

what do you mean by that?

thanks for the help! :D

using 800-1000 grit sand paper to sand out any slight imperfections you see after you apply the primer. The primer will help show any imperfections as well as give the paint something to hang on too. You might not need to sand if you are not going to do any body work (such as styrene / putty body kits).

k cheers :)...by the way ,any pics of yur finished s2k yet?

I posted a pic of it above just look up :)

here's the before (well it's got the body kit on it):

http://monroeaccess.net/~sjonathan/i...00_bodykit.jpg

and after:
http://monroeaccess.net/~sjonathan/i..._finnished.jpg
http://monroeaccess.net/~sjonathan/i...2000_front.jpg
http://monroeaccess.net/~sjonathan/i...s2000_back.jpg

only thing is my body won't fit on my dual cell chassis (since i flipped the pcb). I'm going to get my next chassis fet modded so i can fit this on it.


I'm about to work on a sic body kit for my 350z and then repaint it.

UMMMMMM,(MOUTH DROPS TO FLOOR!)....Nice, cant wait to see your finished product! ;) Keep up the ACE work!

If you can feel scratches, it'll show up in the end result, as I had to repaint my first paint job. Also, I think that color sanding would be good, as I got major orange peel. Put tape over the spot you want not painted (a bigger piece than needed), then use a razor blade to cut off the excess. I spray what is needed. It took me about 4 coats for my Bb (now I can't find the metalflake, grrrr). Don't rush it; it'll be done when it's done.

I think i used 7-8 coats of paint on my s2k above. Keep in mind that the coats i used were fairly light, but that's why you don't see any streaks or uneveness in the paint.

Some great advice here, I actually painted the same body but only I used Krylon Fusion (spray paint made just for plastic). First I took some #000 steel wool (available in the paint dept. at Walmart for about $2 for 9 pads) soaked one pad in water then attacked the Suki body with it. The fine pad did a good job of eliminating the stock gloss and all the designs imprinted on the car, leaving a single color flat foundation for my paint. I only masked off the windsheild itself and popped out the seats.

I used an old set of deer antlers to hold the body up in the air for painting, NEVER set it on a flat surface b/c it is very difficult to paint the lower portion of the body this way, plus the paint can run down and glue the body to whatever it's on.

After shooting 3 good coats of color; I used regular craft paint and a super fine extremely short bristle art brush (both available in the crafts dept. at Walmart, about $5 total) to hand paint the headlights and tailights.

Once the craft paint dried, the body went back up on the deer antlers for the final clear coating, using Krylon Triple Thick clear glaze, available in the paint dept. at Walmart for $3.

The result is an outstanding professional looking body and paint job which unfortunently I can't photograph b/c my digital camera doesn't like small objects. On an interesting side note, while my final clear coat was drying I went down to Radio Shack for some solder only to find out that there now a yellow Honda 2k body almost identical to the yellow I painted the Suki body.

Deer antlers, that's a classic! :rolleyes:


I used my 1:1 scale engine stand to set my jeep on while painting. :D