Pn-s03
 

Has anyone tried to run the S03 in their mini-x? With stock electronics or custom?

I was looking at the PN website again and the S03 seems to be a good value vs. trying to buy individual parts. You get a BB can, you get Neo mags, you get carbon brushes. You even get one of their best armatures and all for way less than the cost of those individual parts. You would lose the 4wd, but then again, it would cost less to get the S03 than it would to get a BB can, Neo's and the brushes to replace around your mini-x armature so...

So is $27 +S/H worth it for all of that? Wonder if you could do a takumi style shaft mod on it? pretty small nub sticking out the back.

Anyway, taking a break from work and thought I'd ask.

from my experience that motor gets the fets really hot in no time flat. when they get hot the glitch and you get a run away car. if you use a fet upgrade and maybe find a way to keep them cool you should be fast. on no load it was friggin fast

ah, so what about the PN Speedy practice motor you love so much?

That's not a BB can, and its normal magnets right? It sounds like it does have the same carbon brushes as the S03 though.

At that point, I might just be better off grabbing the BB can and using the X armature?

I'm still nervous about motor work, but I did just order those 1/3AA cells with tabs, so I should be running off light 6 cell packs soon.

Know of a good place to buy those deans micro plugs for cheap? That or whichever battery connector you prefer. Would make charging much easier.

P.S. Running on the OL tires all around w/ soft springs. Runs great on the asphalt now :P

the s03 will better than the x or speedy. my speedy came with carbon brushes but i put the arm in a bb can and neo mags on it. use my shaft mod to keep your 4wd ;p

I'm thinking that I might use the X armature in the S03 can. Like I mentioned, it comes with all the goodies, but the armature seems to run too hot for the stock electronics like you said. Be a shame to tear up a fancy motor like that, but its also the cheaper way to get the BB can, neo mags and carbon brushes.

the S03 is $27

$13 - BB case
$9 - neo mags
$10 - carbon brushes
= $32. Not to mention I can hold on to the armature which they sell for $11 (all off pn racing's homepage)

I picked up a 2wd mini-x motor to play with (cheap, if I screw it up, no big deal), but I can't get the thing open. Any advice for getting it open?

Shame that the S02 doesn't have a BB can since that armature sounds to be more what I would want.

I could also try out those spinbrush motor magnets that everyone is talking about in the xmod forums, but I dunno if that would do much in the stock 4wd can.

I just found an interesting article on using power caps in RC.

http://www.rczone.net/modules.php?na...wcontent&id=22

Says it will help minimize heat generated by the ESC by reducing the "voltage ripple". Anyway, having said (takumi) that the S03 heats up the stock ESC pretty quickly, do you think a power cap will reduce the heat buildup enough to be runnable? Anyone here try this?

takumi, were you running that novak 4700uf power cap when you tried out the S03?

i already made a post on that a bit ago, it lowers heat of the esc and motor. and no i wasnt using a cap. it is worth a try but i mush warn you my fets got hot after no longer than 30 feet of running

Sorry, I know you posted before takumi, but you just said cooler and I wasn't sure if it would be enough of a difference to run a hot motor like the S03. It's sounding like a bad idea to run it straight. On the upside I finally cranked open the 2WD motor I picked up and think I feel comfortable enough to exchange the armature on my 4wd (assuming I can get the pinion off) and place it into a BB can with nice mags and nice brushes.

For poops and giggles, I dropped by the rite aid on the way home and picked up a crest spinbrush. The xmod people convinced me that it'd be worth a look anyway. It was actually pretty easy, for now I just swapped the magnets out with my 2wd motor, and I will put them in my 4wd motor at some point (will be harder since caps are soldered on). I even put the weaker mags back into the spinbrush motor and re-assembled the thing. Works fine and looks almost untouched. Might post a thread about it since most people seem to have taken a hammer to it to get the motor out, when a more leveraged touch was all that was needed.

FYI: The IPD racing connectors have slightly less resistance than the micro deans (though I already ordered the MicroDeans by the time I found these).

http://www.ipdraceshop.com/prod_imag...goldconect.gif


They also benefit in that you can solder the female end right to a "L" battery bar on the cell, making the wire layout cleaner in the car, less weight and resistance also since not as much wire is used.


As far as polarization? Simple. You cut or strap the esc wires short enough that you cant "flip" the cells around and still connect.

They also hold well together. The only time I had problems with the larger 1/10th version of these was during 1/10 off-road when I hit a bumb so hard I cracked the chassis. Or the other time when I had a cold solder joint, and the female end popped off the battery bar.

http://www.ipdraceshop.com/pd_gold.cfm

nice find i may need to use those