how to make the sickest Custom Paint job
 

ok i bored and i put together the biggest painting tips from tinyRC members and put who said it.

if u want to find out where i got it i searched for "paint jobs"


feel free to add your own tips cuz i might of missed some tips



viperkilla said...
"To paint your cars here is my method to painting it.

1. Clean off the body with some soap and water. Then let it dry.
2. Mask off the parts you dont want to paint.
3. Spray some primer on it
4. Spray a few light coats of paint.
5. Let it dry

As to making racing stripes, I have heard people using electrical tape.
As for what color you should paint it, its just personal preference."

Bad Company said...
well it needs its own thread


ccp said...
"step1 mask the car
step2 sand the car
step3 clean the car try to get your finger grease off and any sand dust and make sure its totally dry before you prime or shoot your basecoat.
BE ONE WITH THE CAR
step4 if you use primer nows the time to shoot the primer shoot it in light even coats from like 8 to 10 inches away dont try to prime the whole car
in 2 coats you'll have trouble ie primer not sticking to the car and primer runs or sags.
step5 leave your car alone let it dry dont rush it follow the directions for drying time on the primer can .
step6 lightly scuff primer your basecoat (the color your painting your car) needs something to grip to.
step7 if your really picky nows the time to pull all your masking tape off and remask it AGAIN.
step8 follow step3
step9 time to paint just remember take your time light even dusting of basecoat 8inches away the basecoat needs time to flash (dry) between coats
if you dont let it flash you'll have trouble.
step10 let it dry 1 to 2 hrs it depends on how warm it is.
step11 pull your masking off the windows but leave your lights masked if your going to clearcoat your car.
step12 shoot your clearcoat the same way as you shot your basecoat dont rush it.
step13 let her dry peel the remaining masking tape off and put her back together .
step14 have fun and i hope your paint job turn out killer
theses steps work for me iam not saying this is the only way to paint your Xmod it really depends on what kind of paint your using
ie waterbase,acrylic,enamals or automotive paints.
so if i missed anything please feel free to ad to the steps"


major skyline said...
"For my supra i used an airbush. i started with a coat of testors primer then i wet sanded it with 800 grit wet/dry sand paper
then anotyer coat of primer, more sanding, then 2 caots of testor gloss black, then 5 coays of timaya cc.
for the hood i used testors flat black painted it on really thick then took a dry brush and drug it across diagonally
then airbrushed on another coat after that dried to get that carbon fiber look.
i think it came out pretty good check it out at"
http://tinyrc.com/forums/showthread...15&pagenumber=8

sessiz10 said...
"My first go with the pactra was pretty bad. I attribute this to..
1. Not using a primer at all.
2. Not sanding enough of the factory finish off first.
3. Plain old lazyness
I use the krylon crystal clear acyrilic spray for my clearcoats.
Cheap and very effective. (Not recomended for enamel paints though)"
"I keep the lights and emblem and anything else I want left untouched by masking them with tape.
I have 3 rolls of that blue trim tape left over from when I was painting the house and find that it's excellent. No bleeding what so ever.
You could use plain ole masking tape but you gotta make sure you've got the edges pressed firmly before you start painting or else you risk a bleed or two

shaneomac326 said...
"1) clean it down good a tack rag works great
2) Tape what you don't want painted
3) Scuf it down with a scuf pad a fine scuf pad so you don't hurt the platic
4) Prime it 2 times let it dry
5) put the paint to it like three times. It will not hurt it"


magneto said...
"(stay away from any dusty areas, it will be the death of your paint)

1) soap and water to remove any grime or dirt particles (when removing the factory paint, it can scratch the body
2) Testor 800 grain (red transparent color) sand paper. use this with some water, and the factory "paint" job is just a clear coat over the the red plastic body. you want to just remove that clear coat to give you some very light texture to grab. You will notice the body looks drab and dull (milky red, I had a red supra) when you get the clear coat off.
3) clean the body again to remove and clear coat particles
4) shoot the body in a base coat (you won't need primer at this point). I usually shoot black and make sure you do very tiny coats (spray #1 - half coat thickness, spray #2 - half coat thickness).
5) when you let those two dry (give at least 6 hours each (depending on the paints you use). Check for blemishes and if you have some, use the real thin sand paper to just sand as little as possible to remove the blemish. Re apply another coat if needed.
6) you are ready to shot your paints now. Remember, the more light coats you have, the better. This will give a depth to your paint, but trust me you won't see it until the end.
7) I shot around 3 light base coats and 6 light body coats. Remeber, you don't want heavy paint on your car, it makes it look bloated. Once again, you won't really notice the bloating until you hit the last step, which is the clear coat.
8) Water Base Clear Coat - Best stuff to use and I'll give you the biggest reason: If you screw up, you have a chance to wipe it off with a little water (and as long as all your paint is dry and it's good paint, you shouldn't ruin your color coats at all). You need to let the clear coat dry twice as long as the normal paint due to it's reaction with water. If you don't let it fuse with the paint, then you even get a spec of water, and it will bead the clear coat.
Once you let it dry, just wait till you see how amazing the paint looks after that clear coat is dry.
Hope this gave you an idea on how to paint your car."





testors paint

http://www.testors.com/


dragon4450 said...
"i have noticed with testors spray cans that the paint will keep a tacky feeling for awhile.
and no the paint does not harden.
i would sugest going to like walmart or the like and picking up some dupli-color clear paint.
i will give it a nice hard shell but it can still be scrached like a real paint job on a car. dipli-color for tose that dont know is made by dupont.
you know the guys that make just about every paint that body shops use."


neurokinetik said...
"My RSX paint felt "soft" even after a week. I think it's a characteristic of the enamel type paints. As someone else pointed out,
The Testors paint tends to be thick. If you were airbrushing, you'd thin it before spraying it, ut if you are using a spray can,
obviously that option is out the window.
I think the method of placing the can in a glass of warm water before you spray is a good idea, and might help a bit here."

mbartell said...
"Testors paint is a little soft. I always try to put it on really really thin- like mist a cloud over the bodyfrom 2 feet away.
Keep doing this untill it gets a solid coat.
Painting is a lot of technique, kind of hard for me to explain. I've just been doing it for years.
before you put diffrent brands of spray paint n top of each other, make a test peice- like a spare spoiler,
a chunk of packaging or whatever, and make sure the paints are compatable. Diffrent brands have diffrent chemicals in them, and some attack each other.
You don't want to spend days (or months) preparing a custom body, and ruin it after 10 layers of paint by putting on the wrong clear."
Also, you don't want a primer that won't hold your paint, and will let the color coat peel straight off."

neurokinetik also said...
"I used Testors spray paint on mine. It got a decent finish, but an airbrush would have given a more controlled application.
I kind of had to choose between spatters and way too thick.
I chose way too thick and have a couple of runs in the paint, but not that bad.
Masking the windows and everything else (epsecially all the grilles on th body kit pieces) isn't much fun, and its hard to avoid a little bit of seepage.
I will have to touch up the black in a couple of spots on mine as a result, though the windows came out nice."

97PrizmLsi said...
"I used Testor's Model Master rattle cans from Hobby Bench...god the paint turned out horrible. The project is soaking in paint thinner right now..
The body is salvagable though..I am definetely going for something that is not enamel. I bought 1 bottle of Tamiya paint (the brush on)
and the consistency is so much better..
I know it will work. Only if I can find the cans. Makes me sad because I put 2 days into the paint job. I didn't primer..maybe that would of helped.
I did around 5 coats out of 2 cans of the spray.
The paint was runny and in the end it was just thick and peeled off."

more
 

more



Tamiya paint

http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/paints/index.html

MattH said...
"If you have a hobby store close I would use Tamiya model paint in a spray can. Make sure you don't get Tamiya's paint for Lexan as it is not compatable.
Wash the body well with warm water and dish soap and do not touch any surfaces to be painted. Paint in super light coats that just mist the body.
Then add a few clear coats of the Tamiya clear. Light coats are the key"

Bad Company said...
"I would suggest using primer on it first though. Painting the Xmods are a different monster than painting Zips and Bits.
Don't go too light on your coats or you'll get a splatter effect and a rough finish. A balance of a good even coat without running is the key.
I spray from about 12" away with 2 moderate passes on each side, top, front, and back. I do this 2 times for the primer and 6-8 times on the color,
and follow up with 2-3 clear coat."
"I normally don't use primer on my Zips, but after hearing about people having problems with paint sticking to the Xmods,
I went ahead and used it. Also, the Xmod bodies are a different plastic than the Zip bodies. Be sure to wash your body and let it dry before you paint it.
Whether you use primer or not is up to you. I can't tell you how well it will work without it cuz I personally haven't tried it yet."

xxspeednplayaxx said...
"well for me i sanded, the did a base coat with two layers a gunship grey from tamiya, i let the first layer dry 6 hours and the second over night,
then today i started with metalic black first 2 layers let dry fo 4 yours each,
but it came out too light (looxs like gunmetal, and would mess my planed color scheme) so now ive dont two coats gloss blak from plasic kote each coat dries for 4 hours...
tonight ill do my 3rd layer metalic black and let it sit over night.. tomm ill do a coat every six hours, thurs day let it dry more
(im gunna tape on stencils so it must be completely cured)
friday pring out my custom decals and cut them out,
the cover the entire body with tape, do 1 coat gunship grey follow by 2 layers gunmetal, giving each coat about 4 hours dry time then let it sit over night..
saturday take off the tape, and wax it with
spray on car wax, then wipe after 2 mins, then hand paint the details (signals side view mirror glass ect.) and
put some custom and r.s. logos. clear coat it twice, 6 hours dry time and let it sit till next weekend, about 6 days... i know this is long but basicly
if you follow my schedual and use tamiya or plastic kote paint i garuntee a smooth glass like finish, and btw by tape i ment painter blue tape, and also
im taking a long time between coats because i want the best paint job, but 30 min between coats is acceptable.. good luck"





removing paint
(hey we all mess up some time)


viperkilla said...
"the factory paint: Personally, I'd just leave it on and just primer it and then paint it. You dont really need to take off the paint.
But to i would use nail polish remover, works great. Just dont scrub too hard otherwise you will damage the plastic."
"I've tried nail polish remover. This stuff works great but it can take off the factory coat of paint though. So be careful!"

SR20DETT said...
"Depends on how you want to fix your mess up. If your going to repaint the whole car, you can use a mild paint thinner but be extremely careful as thinner can melt plastic
but this only works well if the paint is not dry. Or if you want to try and fix the problem you could try and spot paint in the bad section. Either way you will need Scotch Brite
and possably a really fine grain sand paper say 1200 or so. It is essentially the same way a body shop would fix a paint mess up but with a whole lot more care and delacasy. Good Luck,


LittleBlueRocke said...
"You can use brake fluid to strip paint off really quickly.It is mainly used to strip down lexan bodies in a short period of time,
but I doubt it would harm the plastic of these bodies"

Cian said...
"15 mins tops, any more and the plastic starts to soften too much. As you said, stripping down is essential, remove all metal screws as well as anything else that may be damaged...
brake fliud is not a kind substance"


Bad Company said...
"First off I don't even bother removing the old paint. I haven't tried removing the paint from the lenses, but someone said brake fluid?
Just be carefull. (I make my own clear lenses.)
The first thing I do is remove the lenses by removing the glue holding them on the inside of the body with a Dremel, then just pop them out.
Next, I wash the car in dish soap and warm water, and then let it dry completely. Then apply your masking tape over the windows and cut the edges out with the X-acto knife.
Also mask off anything else you don't want painted.
I usually apply enough primer to cover the entire car, and one extra coat after that, usually 2 good coats. When using Tamiya spray paints, I wait about 10 minutes between coats
( same for between the primer and color, and the color and clear coat.).
Depending on the color, I will apply anywhere from 6-8 coats of color. I spray from about 12" away with 2 steady passes per coat on all sides.
Finally I apply 2-3 coats of clear coat. Tamiya paints dry fast, so I wait about 25-30 minutes, and carefully remove the masking tape.
If you wait too long, you make get cracking at the edges,
but if you do it too early, it will not be a clean edge (due to the still goo like state of the paint.).
Try not to touch the paint while removing the tape. Wait at least 8 hours before handling the car."


wear and tear on your new Custom Paint job
Bad Company said...
"I know how you feel about being nit-picky, but I've already made my mind up that I'm gonna play with my car, and it's only a matter of time
before it's gets some wear and tear.

You could go on worrying about that kind of stuff, and not have fun with your car, and let it sit on your shelf and collect dust, or you can just shrug it off and race that puppy.
If it bothers you that much, then by all means take it back, but are you going to do that everytime it gets a scratch?

You wanna play, you're gonna pay.....If you want to go fast."


well u did it !u read all of it good job!!



good luck and i hope this helped u in make the sickest Custom Paint job on the block!!

Whoa! BC sticky this please!!

...
 

This stuff is misleading. Two cans for five coats. I've got an idea that primer helps the paint stick to where it doesn't run...hmm. Also spraying that much paint... With how you spray Tamiya spraypaint would use like 4 cans because it's a thin acrylic... Geesh, talk about noob...

I am going to rename this and move it to the Mods and projects section, then sticky it for now.

Nice work collecting everything! Good work Suprafreak33!

Again, this is many different member's ways of doing it.

The tamiya color chart hope it helps someone out

http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/pai...olor_chart.jpg

thanks for renaming it and making it a sticky
:D

how and when do i put the clear coat? and whats its purpose?

The clear coat does two things, it adds a glossy look and helps protect your paint. It is the last coat you put on after your main color. Some people put it on after they remove the window masks to give the whole car a glossy look, or you can do it before you remove the masking.

Also, if you are adding decals, some people throw a coat of clear over the car after the decals have been applied to make them blend in better and protect them from being scratched up.

thats my method he he...

btw b.c. i took a look at xstuning.com and am planning to buy the street chrome wheels, but to be custom ill remove every other 2 spokes (10 total) leaving only a wheel with 5 thin spokes, my question is (because you can physicly see/hold the wheels) can the xstunning wheels physicly handle the stress with only 1/3 the origional spokes w/o breaking, with sticky tires nevertheless

Not sure about the particular wheels you are looking at because the number of spokes may be different, but the ones I got were 6 spokes I think, but they are plastic model quality plastic, maybe not as strong as the RS wheels. They make crack under enough stress.

heres the wheels, http://www.xstuning.com/street.html i plan to reduce the spokes from 15 to 5, so for sure they would break either on a high speed turn or luanching from a stand still with a 180 motor and gluey tires

minutes
 

BC EDIT: Please try to post something that will contribute to the thread.

Huh

Re: minutes
 

refere to bc post