Xanavi Crip Cap
 

I just bought a Xanavi. I opened the controller to remove the crip cap, and it seems to be a different layout than any of the pictures I've seen posted on this site or other sites. It did have a capacitor marked 10 that was connected very closely to the blue antenna wire. What is the likelihood that this is the crip cap.

Snip it and see what happens. If it doesn't work, solder it back on. How about a pic for us?

i wouldnt snip anything that you dont know what it is.....dont run the risk of pissing away all of that money....be sure first!!!

Ah, come on.... somebody has to try it first. It's not that hard to solder those caps back on the controllers. Now if we were talking about the car, that's a different story.

most likely someone has already tried it, thats why we have this forum, so others can relay their mistakes/triumphs to others so they dont ruin their own stuff......best thing to do is search this forum.....

I'll try to post a pic sometime this evening. I'm leaning towards just snipping it outta there. Only problem is that my soldering skills leave a lot to be desired.

I'll try to post a pic sometime this evening. I'm leaning towards just snipping it outta there. Only problem is that my soldering skills leave a lot to be desired.

I have a Xanavi too....I'm not sure where the crip cap is...but I'm gonna check the back for anything...

I already checked the back of mine and had no luck. I'm fairly sure that I've located the little sucker, but I would like confirmation before I start hacking away at my board. I'll try to get a pic and maybe we can compare notes.

O.K. I feel really stupid for asking this, but how the heck do I attach my picture files to my message?

at the bottom of the reply thingy after options....ok the xanavi thing sounds fine

Well I'm not sure if this is going to work or not, but here is a pic of the front of my controller board. I've circled what I think might be the crip cap.

that suckers on mine too, but i dunno if i should blast it outta there. I'll do it after I've placed the order for my 4-band controller :D

....and here's the back of the board where the cap is connected to the antenna wire. That's why I think it's the crip cap.

So yours has the same thing huh? Anybody else out there who might be able to take a look at the pics and let us know what you think?

meh i'm goin for it...it would be pretty easy to melt the wires back together with the cap.

Good Luck, man!!!

LOL!!! Nevermind! Mine's not the same! But go for it man!

A queston. Is it an import clone or does it have a FCC ID number? If so you can get the actual wiring diagram from the FCC.

Usualy the crippling cap go from some where in the output through a cap to ground. The Mictosizer/Tomy diagram has it from the collector of the Buffer/Final amp to ground through that cap. There is another cap but it goes from that collector though it to a coil then to the antenna. The other connection is with a coil feeding 3v to the collector from the battery.

Hope that helps. :)

ADENDIUM:
From looking at the picture { if wrong holler guys! :) } it looks like its part of a filter circuit called a PI filter. Used to supress garbage. Easy to see on a ZZ secmatic. Odd are the output is being reduce by the usualy poor { IE non tuned } output filter and they may be no cripple cap at all. :(

It's a Tomy so, prolly no FCC# I would Imagine.

OOPS! Though that was the maker. My humble mistake.

Quest For Madness has the diagram for the Tomy Transmitter. The FCC had the ZZ and Microsizer/US Tomy controller. Here are their numbers.

ZZ 49mhz #:AAO6007002T
Microsizer #:IYF2CH400-49R


FCC lookup site:
http://ftp.fcc.gov/oet/fccid/alternate.html

Notice a comparator opamp in the diagram so they must have change the circuit. Different than what is out there. If they have replace the crude filter with a PI the odds of having a cripple cap are zero. Basically not needed was uses to supress junk from the transmitter.

Sorry, but you're way over my head on all the electronics. My bad about the manufacturer, I should have said it's an imported Tomy from Japan. The diagram may not do me any good anyway, because I don't know that much about electronics...mainly just what I've learned by reading posts here.

Sorry. Maybe this will help. Dont cut the cap.

The orginal cripple cap was proabbly added to lower the signal which actualy lowered a unwanted signal they wanted to get rid of.

If they have upgraded the circuit to remove that unwanted signal correctly they have also remove the cripple cap. Problem is any filter beyond the simple one they had will decrease the output also.

That metal square you pointed out looks an awful lot like a crystal set which tunes the reciever (an identical crystal is also in the Tx) to recieve at the specific frequency.

I say go for it. I just opened up the xmas gift I bought for my nephew:rolleyes:

It's a Blue WRX with 45 mhz controller. Out of the box, I was able to get over 15 ft in a quick test.

The controller does not have the cap that you circled (looks as if it was snipped at the factory or the guy from ebay where I bought it from did it for me. Of course the box did look sealed).

Here's a pic...

i could not see what the revision number is on both of the pictures as it changes slightly with every revision.

OK, I finally built up enough confidence in my soldering skills to perform a capectomy on my Xanavi Controller. That must have been the crip cap, because combined with the telescopic antenna that I've already installed, I now get 30+ feet of range indoors! Woohoo!!

Anyway, I hope this will be helpful to anyone who has the same controller configuration that I do. The pics are posted earlier in this thread.