sb hybrid, XMod Stage 11 Motor or team orion micro elite stock motor?
 

which is faster? which has more torque?

I plan on running 6 cells with these motors. Are these motors safe with stock electronics?

anyone have a video with the 2 motors in a race? :eek:

Re: sb hybrid or team orion micro elite stock motor?
 

Hmm....I'd suggest using the Team Orion Stock motor....It lasts longer, and it has a LOT of torque, but approximately the same speed as the Stage 2 motors. The only disadvantage is that you need a pinion puller to get the pinion on the armature, and that the wires in the back from the end cap may need a little (a LITTLE, like changing or connecting) modding to make it connect with the motor plug in the car. May I mention that you can take away some windings, and it will draw the same current as a 130 motor with twice the number of winds? You also need to solder the capacitors from the Xmod to the Orion motor. All this info is from what I've heard and infered, not from any actual experiences. I've never used a pinion puller, nor wound a custom motor or any stuff of the sort. ;)

The SB motor also is useful, but you may find that you'll need to keep upgrading the magnets, because with all the heat in the motor, the magnets will get warm, and the particles/atoms in the magnets may get rearranged, causing the magnet to lose strength....then again, weaker mags mean more top end speed, but a LOT less torque. The stronger the mags, the more torque but less speed, so with the mags getting weaker as you use them, you may find that you'll need longer distances to gain top speed, but it will be a rocket once it reaches nirvana(NOT the band, you fanatics! :p) from the slow acceleration. ;)

Overall, I suggest getting the Team Orion motor, since it doesn't get as hot as the 130 motors. It may cost about 3 times as much as the SpinBrush, but trust me, you get what you pay for, and this will offset the cost in the time it will last. ;)

Again, all this is from what I have learned and infered, not from actual experience. You may have different results, so forgive me if I sound wrong.....but don't take that as an oppurtunity to rub it in my face and belittle my knowledge....(*cough* oldtamiyaphile *cough*)

Chuckster...

i say screw the sb hybrid unless you have a shorter chassis (ie rsx) cuz the team orion micro elite stock motor and all other 180 motors need the longest chassis to fit.

the team orion motor has a simple circuit board on the endcap with three surface mount capacitors. it already has a wire and plug on it. the wire is a gauge or two thicker. the plug can be easily modified to fit the XMod plug. all i did was cut off the middle tab and cut 2 mm off the end of the plug so i could push the XMod plug all the way in.

in my 5 cell setup using the 10 tooth pinion, the motor actually got warm but the FETs stayed cool. i'd take it apart to advance the timing and take off 10 turns as Neuro recommended but i'm too lazy and busy with college to desolder the pcb off and take apart the endcap.

the S2 heatsink wont' fit this motor, i've tried. it was a tight fit using the stock motor holder but don't use the other motor holder that holds the motor closest to the wires.

the torque in this motor is incredible, even with a 10 tooth pinion. acceleration is almost instantaneous with enough traction.

i really recommend this motor and i feel it's the best upgrade in my xmod.

Will the Team Orion fit right into position with the drive gear, or does there have to be another gear between them to make contact?

Spoken like a true racer!

Chuckster...

I will run this XMOD a lot so I guess I'll go with the Team Orion Stock motor. All I know how to do is install the motor. I can't adjust timing or anything like that. I can hardly change the connectors.

Can someone sell me a new Team Orion Stock motor ready to install? :(

Because the rear motor mount will not be used to install the TOS motor, doesn't the end of the motor fit against the electronics? And doesn't that ruin the electronics?

Any pics of the TOS motor installed?

thanks

BTW, I have 1 set of st2 RS motors, but they're starting to wear out. All but the white motor is squeeking. I only run 1 car with 6 cells outdoor so I only need 1 good motor. The TOS motor seems to be the right motor for me. It lasts long and is fast.

the end of the motor, actually, it's the two terminals with the generous amount of solder used, that butts up against the plastic protecting the electronics. the electronics are not harmed. there shoudln't be anythign near it that could short with the motor terminals. just buy the motor from tower hobbies. take a hobby knife or cutters and slowly take way the plastic on the team orion motor plug that gets in the way of having the XMod motor plug fitting into it

They did use a generous amount of solder on the connections. I actually had to flatten the connections a bit in order to fit the motor in. Not a big deal. I have to say I am *very* impressed with this motor, and I'll try to get a video of my car using it real soon.

TO REZ :
 

Where did u get your Team Orion Motor from ,was it local or on the net? and how much thanks.

I got mine from Tower Hobbies. Approximately $15 shipped. Order was delivered quickly.

you're right about that, mine was scheduled for delivery from the 19th to 24th of february and it came on the 18th.

i had to flatten my solder connection too and the wires are bent at a very sharp 90 degrees but it keeps it nice and snug

newbitowner, do you own a soldering iron? Or do you know anyone who does? Because all you have to do is desolder the wires on the TO stock motor and simply solder on the wires from the stock RS motor. Also you'll need to use the caps from the RS motor. It's actually pretty easy to do and well worth it. I've never had a stage 2 motor in my car because I went straight from the stock motor to the TO motor. A nice change for sure!!

also, if you have a hobbytown in your area, then you can purchase the TO stock motor from there. I bought mine for $10.99 at the local hobbytown.

I can solder the wires on, not too well, but I can.

The what? black thing and brown thing? :D

XMod Stage 11 Motor was added to my options.

Is the XMod Stage 11 Motor from xmodworld.com the best motor I can fit without mods?

by caps I meant capacitors. So yeah i meant that brown thing and black thing that are attached to the motor.

I have a small video of my car with the Orion motor, but I don't have a host for it.

Last night I decided to take the plunge and attempt to remove some of the windings on my TO motor. Well, I can't even get past removing the endbell because the metal tabs are seemingly impossible to bend because of their small size. They are wayyyy harder to bend than the ones on a 130 motor which are relatively easy to bend. Anyone have any tips on how to go about doing this?

Basically I wanted to take 10 turns off the TO 180 motor to get some higher rpm's. As far as I know, 10 turns is the maximum you can take off without having to upgrade the stock FETs.

I actually don't even try to bend those tabs. I use a tiny file and remove them completely, then I solder the endbell back on when I am done.

Are you telling me that the $15 dollar Stage 2s are worthless now???

Ahhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :( :( :D

They're a good source of pinions.

neurokinetik, thanks for the tip. I'm going to just file the tab off with my dremel when I get home tonight. So in your experience, the solder holds the enbell onto the can well enough? Any long term issues?

There shouldn't be any longterm issues, and hell, its much easier to melt the solder and remove the endbell than it is to fight with those damned little tabs.

So are the Stage 1s, and they are cheaper. ;)

Well, yeah, but I mean, if you got em layin around anyway...

Thanks for the host. I'll try to get another video in a larger space. That's my office at work, so I can't just drive it around the hallways indescriminately ;)

I just thought I would say I run a sb-hybrid motor and it runs fast and strong. It does not run hot at all and it never lost its torque and it beat an rs stage 2 right off the line. But I did do a wet brake in if that makes a difference or not I don't know.

I will have to say that the combination of the Team Orion Elite Micro motor, a 10-tooth pinion, AWD, 5 cells, and Sluggbug's carbon fiber driveshafts is unbelieveable.

I received Slugg's driveshafts a couple of nights ago and was impressed with the T.O motor beforehand. Off the line torque was great and top speed was reached rather quickly. After putting in the carbon fiber driveshaft, the car has a whole new life! Solid drifting on plush carpet with slicks and AWD, a 2-3 second 4-wheel spin from takeoff on the carpet...this thing is unreal.

If you're on the fence as to which motor to get, I say go for the extra little bit of money and get the Elite Micro. Then, get in touch with Sluggbug and order his carbon fiber driveshaft set. You won't be sorry that you did, believe me!!

well i can help you with that. first water dip it. dip it with 2 AA/AAA attached to it. until they die. warm water works. then use WD-40 or Slick 50 1 Lube and spray the entire inside of the motor with it, using the hole under the pinion gear. then lube the bushings on each end with some sort of oil. dont use the WD=40 or the 1 Lube.