Wow, thats maazing. With the offroad kit, does it give the a-arms that much push down and that much clearance under nreath the axle? What did you do to your differentials to make them hold up? add me to msn/aim
MSN/e-mail - brycesbenjamin@msn.com
AIM - Stam4x4

Ok, sorry for the delay but I made a picture with descriptions for help in the steering mod. If anything is still unclear let me know. I used two small segments from a large zip-tie due to the very durable, flexable plastic material. I tested about six different lengths till I got it right; the one on the pic is the final version. I can measure if need be so let me know.

For the dying of parts you need to use actual black Ritz dye and boil the orange parts in the dye solution till they absorb the black color. Takes a good 30-45 minutes of stirring at near boiling. Check the net for tips on this if your unsure.

The FET upgrade is too intense (difficult) to do on someone elses truck so sorry I can not help there. I think on ebay people offer this service for a price.

Yes the optional kit offroad arms add what clearance you see in the pics, but the tires do add some too. My diffs have been fine since I have not locked them. I will lock the rear once metal gears are released.

Here is a couple shots of the wheel mod and a side view of the steering mod.

The wheels will be thinner than the tires so place the tires flush with the outer rim and the offset will be correct. That way they don't look silly sticking out too far.

This is what your steering link set-up should look like.

Here's a new little mod I did to gain some torque. I built a 33t spur gear that mates to the 8t pinion. The set-up required some careful trimming to the spur casing and I made the little aluminum gear centering plate to keep everything in line since the cover no longer fits. The plate has a recessed hole that keeps the spur pin captured in place just like the cover did.

There is a noticable difference in torque. I was getting a lot more wheel spin in the dirt and it could go over objects from a dead stop, which it could hardly do before even with the 8/25 combo. I now see a need to lock or limit the diff action for very small scale rock stomping (not quite crawling material...yet)

pic2

try these tires:blift:

Tire/Wheel size
 

i was just wondering about how tall the tires are because i have a few things lying around and have been thinking of trying my own franken rig. thanks

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AIM - Stam4x4

so far these are the only custom mods done to an evo-t chassis that i can find on the searches.

i gotta say good tips, maxx.

so far these are the only custom mods done to an evo-t chassis that i can find on the searches.

i gotta say good tips, maxx.

maxxitout, that chassis is so good you actually got me to post here for the first time over a year!:eek:

seriously, some really intelligent and well executed mods you got there.

i'll bet money we start seeing more dyed evo parts thanks to you!:D

good work. thanks dude. Good tuitorial(TUT:D ) AND what
betty.k said ^^^^^

Thanks all!

I have done another mod that takes out all the play in the stock wheel hubs.

Use a couple thin wire bread ties; make sure they are all the same and not thick wire. Peel off the coating and expose just the wire. Find something cylindrical about the same size as the inner diameter of the hub housing, where the bearings go. Take out the bearings and axle. Use the cylinder and smoothly shape four wire circles that fit perfectly inside the housing where they would press against the bearings outer race, snip to the right length. Make sure the wire does not overlap and skew the bearings. A little gap is fine. The effect should be that the loop wants to slightly expand inside the housing so it is always against the outer race.

Re-assemble and all the hub slop should be gone!! Mine feels solid and much higher quality.

So you basically put a spacer in front of the bearings?
I have loads of teflon washers, that should work too?