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No need to create even more posts concerning the "of topic". Just let it go. I'll remove the comments.
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BC CUTTING OFF POSTS
SO DO YOU JUST GO AROUND AND CUT PEOPLES POSTS OFF IF YOU DO NOT LIKE THEM????? WHAT CRAP THIS IS A FORUM AND IS SUPPOSED TO BE FUN WHO CARES IF SOMEBODY POSTS SOMETHING A LITTTLE OFF TOPIC!!! I KNOW THINGS CAN GET OUT OF HAND BUT GROW UP!! THIS IS A FORUM AND IT IS SUPPOSED TO BE FUN!!
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Dude calm down. . .It's an internet forum about toy cars (Yeah I said it)
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Re: BC CUTTING OFF POSTS
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It is bad enough that there is at least 5 or so threads created for any given topic a day, but then a member has to read thru them to only find that half of the posts have usefull info about that topic. |
Re: Re: BC CUTTING OFF POSTS
Quote:
Chuckster... |
Agreed
I do agree post that ask "which color should I paint" do get in the way of tech stuff. Do you just have a forum for people that have xmods to bs. I had some masking tips posted a week or so ago I hope this can help. I am 29 ......I figured you were close to my age.
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I have a question guys... BC maybe your best to answer this one but its really for everyone... I have read the whole thing and I seem to be under the impression that the Testors paint just plain sucks...:rolleyes: I would really like to know if you guys know anything about the Dupli-Color Mirage paint you can get at Advanced Auto for 20 dollars with the whole kit to use... Primer-Base-Clear...Is it really worth the 20 slide? Cause I want my Supra to look extra slick... But performance is also knocking at my door... Since you can get a Type R or Type S motor for that kinda price... Just maybe you guys could help me out... And BTW it is a bit childish to get worked up over nothing I may not have any room to talk since I'm only 14 but isn't us the younger crowd that RS had in mind? More than the older crowd (no offence)... Just an observation...
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i thought thats what you painted your supra, so why are you asking?
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I just redid the paint job on my remote plus some ESC covers (base layer of Testor's Primer, since Tamiya Primer was/is having importation problems, a can of Tamiya Deep Metallic Blue, two layers of Tamiya Mica Blue, and two cans of Tamiya clear coat).
Quick story on my old method: I did 3-4 layers followed by an hour of drying plus a full day between cans & I waited a full week to clearcoat & another week before wetsanding/polishing/waxing. After a week, orange peel settles in, messing up the surface a bit, hence my new methodology. New method: Day 1 is primer. As with for all fresh coats on dry, I start with a couple of superthin layers which dry for an hour. Day 2: color. This time, I treat all 3 color cans as a single layer, making sure to never saturate too much, as it causes running of paint, often through colors. I do the superthin layers followed by a few layers from far away until I see the "wet look" at which point, every subsequent layer happens at 15-20 minutes to retain teh wet look a few times, let it dry for an hour and shift the pieces to cover areas at angles that didn't get hit and repeat the process. Day 3: clearcoat. Works just like colored paint. Now, after the first week, I bought another can of clearcoat because the paint had this fissured & orange peel look and was anticipating heavy sanding. But it's now at 3 weeks, and all that crap settled out, and the surfaces all look like etched glass. The big lesson here is that giving the paint plenty of time (I'm waiting a full month) to fully cure allows for a TON of defects in the finish to settle out. |
:mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: i cant make the head lights perfect
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it says on the testors spraycanz that it's not intened for use on polyethylene plastics. so that might have somethin' to do with it :P
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Tips are all really helpful, but how do you go about the RIMS? how would you make sure the spray is even around the spokes and the back?
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