here are a couple pics sorry their so late my sister has been hiding the camera from me. god shes 23 and shes afraid im gonna break it.

you're going from the one on top with the red square around it to this below with the bigger white one.

Do you know what the colors were before it burned up? The one on the right in the last pic was 5.6k Ohm and if that last band was gold then it was a 5% tolerance resister.

Resister color codes

0 - black
1 - brown
2 - red
3 - orange
4 - yellow
5 - green
6 - blue
7 - violet
8 - gray
9 - white
TOL: gold 5% silver 10%
MUL: gold 0.1 silver 0.01

First two bands are the first two numbers of the resister the 3rd band is the multiplier and the last is the tolerance(accuracy).

i know that the 2 resistors are different and ill check them when i get home.

man, I wish I knew more about these kind of electronics. I really am having a hard time understanding what you guys are talking about.

the three colors are GOLD, RED and SILVER. IDK what happened to you ned_glenn. is that inside or outside?

well i only figure that a bigger resitor will be better because when i jumpered it, it wouldn't work at all. but when i put the other one it it worked fine

i took out the resistor that u selected in that pic, my motor runs from 30 feet away, but my steering has decreased in range, this makes no sense... any ideas?

by steering range you mean radius or car range? did you replace it with another resistor or leave it empty?

IDK thats from a ZZ controler right? it might be physically too big too.

I got a question...my reistors blew, so I swap a new board, everything. But the new board I got was used and one of the 2 risistors has a small black spot on it...do you think it would be good to use it or just replace it? And does it matter which crystal chip you put onto your xmod, does it have to he the RX crystal?

If I am seeing this correctly, the piece you are talking about is not a resistor at all, it is actually an inductor or coil. The two green things you guys are calling resistors are labeled L1 and L2. Standard practice in labelling circuit boards is to name resistors with an R, capacitors with a C, transistors with a Q, and inductors with an L.

Now, when L2 fries, it creats an open circuit in the reciever. By placing a resistor there, you have closed the circuit, alowing it to work somewhat normally again. The correct thing to do would be to find out what the value of the inductor is and replace it with the right part. It is color coded brown/red/silver. Normally four bands are used for color coding, so I'm not sure what the value of this coil really is. Silver generally indicates the tolerance, which would be 10% in this case. If I had to guess, I'd say that this is either a 100μH or a 12μH inductor.

I'm not an EET professional, but i have repair a couple of the reciever boards on my own and they are working fine. correct me if i'm wrong, but the 2 resistor on your reciever, first one is green-blue-gold and second is (silver-red-gold, or Brown-Red-Gold). the silver and gold are tolerance, which means how much they can handle before burning out, like fuses in your amp, or car. the other colors stand for how many omhs. 1st-R is g-blue which gives you 56 omhs or around. 2nd-R could be 12 omhs or 2omhs. you could get micro resistor and replace the burn ones. you don't have to get exactly the same omhs, bigger # is better then smaller (ex: 56omhs could be replace by 60-70).

the color bands are:
first and second color band
black 0, bown 1, red 2, orange 3, yellow 4, green 5, blue 6, violet 7, gray 8, white 9

third color band
silver 10% tolerance, gold 5%

neuro, because people have been replacing the inductors with resistors what could the consequences possibly be?
And by replacing them with resistors could it help any?
And if the resisitors do indeed work ok then which would be the best to use for maximum range?

ok thanks. where can i find inductors/coils? RS?