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3series takumi
03-09-2003, 11:00 PM
does any one know the best electronics to get (receiver, esc, and servos). I hear that the Novak Spy esc is a great one to use for this scale of cars but are there any that are cheaper.

Do glider and small aircraft servos work on the X. The generally are pretty small but i dont know if they have the power that the car needs

catman25
03-10-2003, 05:46 AM
honestly seeing how there isnt any motor upgrades you should stick with the mini x electronics..the esc,reciever,servo, crystal cost bout the same as 1 spy.and they work great.they can handle a 6 cell set up. and are quite fast.but with no motor upgrades your stuck with what your stuck with unless you want to mod the chassis or loose four wheel drive.

binaryterror
03-10-2003, 06:08 AM
I do also like the X electronics alot. They have performed well for me with six batteries and i even tested them in my project car which has a modified 180 size motor. The componenets are all small and meant to fit eaxtly as planned.

The spy is a waste of money, it is very large in comparison to other ESC's and handles less. There are others in the market which out perform them.

As far as recievers go, the Hitec Shredder is the smallest ever made, however they have been discontinued, so good luck finding anything other than ebay and a few odds and ends places. Even the hitec seems a bit large and out of shape compared to the stock X receiver.

The stock servo works fine, and is a common Hitec HS-55. You can get them just about anywhere.

Tinyrc sells all this for $65, i think you still need a crystal though, but $65 is better than $60 for the Spy, about $50 for the Hitec Shredder and $25 for the Hitec HS-55.

catman25
03-10-2003, 04:35 PM
hey i just bought a novak spy:mad: :D

binaryterror
03-10-2003, 05:01 PM
HAHAHAHA

I have been doing alot of shopping and reading, most racing people tend to avoid the Spy. But for a DRR that should be fine, my next RC is the WWS 1/18th scale RS4 killer. It comes stock with a Speed 300 motor which will ignite a spy quite quickly.

catman25
03-10-2003, 06:29 PM
im a broken man with no money and finally the mini x is on its way back to me :-)

binaryterror
03-10-2003, 08:00 PM
My experiment with making my own chassis has ended for a while, no time or ambition any longer, however i can not wait for IRC to get in the 1/18th WWS car...

I know how the no money blues goes...

3series takumi
03-14-2003, 11:53 PM
i just put in a novak XXL receiver, a TeamOrion Flash ESC and a Hitec hs-55 servo. The best combo I have tried. Everything works flawless with no gliches running 4-8 cells. And the best thing is I have good brakes and reverse. The mini-z out there cant touch my X. I will post some pictures and maybe a movie of me killing my friend turbo mini-z as soon as i finsh my Evo body and get good placement of the ESC and wires.

tinyrc
03-16-2003, 09:24 PM
3series takumi, post those pics to Mini-ZRacer.com too, I'm having a tough time convincing those guys just how great the X is! :D

binaryterror
03-19-2003, 09:15 PM
[Super Crazy Mad Voice]
RAH....

The Mini-X will destroy your puny Mini-Z!!!!

[/Super Crazy Mad Voice]

SteveK
03-21-2003, 11:52 PM
For mini and micro R/Cs, I recommend 1/10th scale ESCs like the GM V3R, Futaba MC230 and 330, and several LRP speedos. They are just as small as the made-for-Micro ESCs (Except the Airtronics ES01, but that's for the stock Mabuchi 130-180 motors only), but they have no motor limit with motors smaller than 540s. People are always pumping bigger motors and batts into their Micro RS4s, and none of the Micro ESCs say they can outright handle a Big Block and 6 cells.

I have a Mini X, got a roller off ebay, and I'm wondering about electronics myself. I have a V3R and MC230, an FMA Direct micro servo, and only standard AM RECs, and I don't know it if will all fit or not. Guess I'll just have to do some fiddling.

3series takumi
03-22-2003, 12:57 AM
that is a good idea to put in 1/10th scale electronics if they can fit. the only problem i see is that alot of them need 8 cells. some run with six but glitch. also those 1/10 esc's will eat AAA's with a big motor. oh yeah it is hard to fit anything other than a 130 type motor without heavy mods. by the time you get everything to fit you will probably have a 1/10 scale car. i have all micro parts and i am still tryin to fit everything in without craming. (team orion esc, hitec -55 servo, and novak xxl receiver, w/5 cells) post some pics of some of those electronics. maybe i can help fix up somethin.

fastboy
03-22-2003, 06:36 AM
what are you on about...a lot of 1/10th radio gear needs 8 cells??? 1/10 radio gear is designed to run on 6 cells and some even 4 cells(but mainly need 5 cells for reciever),maybe you should not comment on stuff you dont know about?


dave

3series takumi
03-22-2003, 12:50 PM
Have you tried running those electronics on the X. remember these are AAA cells and they are not just powering the recever, they also have to give some current to the motor, esc and servo. if you have used the stock (micro parts) it is already slow, and those parst are made to run with AAA cells. I may not know tonsof things about R/C's but i am speaking from trying this stuff out. I wouldnt post information unless i have tried it. if you see a flaw in somethin i say prove it or give examples of a better way, instead of just saying i am wrong.

fastboy
03-22-2003, 01:51 PM
what do you want me to prove??..that 1/10th gear is designed for 6 cells??..maybe you should ask one of the many rc car electronic manufactures,or just ask anyone who races 1/10th,i have btw at national level for almost 15 yrs.

putting 1/10 gear in a mini x would cause no more problems than using the stock electronics that come with it and yes i have tried the x electronics..i have 2 of them sat here and another set in a dtm-x4.

there is nothing much wrong with the x electrics,the car is slow because of the motor being a low performance unit not because of AAA cells or the speedo.or do you mean the servo slow?..well you could always fit a hitec servo which will be faster.


if you feel you need the speedcontroller to be able to handle more current flow then you can add more FET's to the spare places on the circuit board just infront of the stock fets.
i use 6AAA in my rocket racer and with a stock or a stock 180 motor the car is quicker than on 6 AA cells because of the power to weight ratio.

the only time you may suffer with AAA cells not being able to supply enough current is with highly modified 180 motor ie, orion or hpi 45t motor.
if you are getting glitching on 6 cells it is usually 1 or 2 things:

1 cells not charged/bad cells.
2 motor not having any capacitors fitted
3 poor routing of the wiring..try to keep the reciever away from the motor and make sure that no power wires from the battery/motor run across it
4 you could always fit a power cap the the speedcontroller to help with the voltage drop under accelaration.

please dont take my previous post to heart..i just hate seeing posts about things which are correct :)

any questions plz ask

binaryterror
03-22-2003, 04:55 PM
I personally think the X electronics are move than appropriate for any of 1/24th scale cars. #1 they are cheap and yet still darn durable. I have yet to have any problem with them. I even tested the ESC with 8 AAA NiMH batteries, it ran fine for a few minutes, but i didn't want to fry anything for good. (FET Stacking should help this though)

Also 1.2 volts is 1.2 volts no matter if they are AAA or subC batteries. the only gain from different types of batteries is more MAH.

Again most 1/10th scale ESCs do not require 8 batteries, they commonly run from 4-8 cells, with the higher priced ones easily handling the 4-10 or even 12 range. Adding voltage will increase your Mini-X's power...NOT RUN TIME.

By 3series Takumi
team orion esc, hitec -55 servo, and novak xxl receiver, w/5 cells

Dude the Hitec 55 is the same as the Mini-X model, the team orion ESC is HUGE! and those dumb XXL recievers from Novak again are HUGE. The stock Receiver from the Mini-X electronics is smaller in most ways than the Hitec Shredder, which will always be the smallest ground reciever made. The ESC from the RTR kit for the X is nearly the same size as the LRP micro ESC's, but again its shape makes it hold the space it was intended to hold no more!

To gain speed in your Mini-X make it run on 6 cells, 700 MAH or 750MAH (hard to find AAA's higher in MAH). Also make sure you have bearing everywhere!!!!! This improves things so much! The next step i am looking to is a new motor can with better vents and ball bearings, then maybe a hand wind of the motor.

SteveK
03-26-2003, 10:29 PM
Does somebody have dimensions and/or pictures of just the electrics? I want to use them in some smaller projects, 1/43rd scale rally cars and stuff.

3series takumi
03-26-2003, 10:42 PM
(binaryterror) thanx for the bearing tip. i got a set and i cant believe how fast the X really is. it can actually roll! i got my X running 8 cells with neo mags in the can. that thing cruises even on regular streets. who knew all i needed was bearings to take out the rest of the miniZ's in my area.

i just went up to San Fran to the Tokyo Tekki shop to meet (DriftGOD) and shamed his twin turbo miniZ. it was so much fun after he left all the bad talk about miniX's in an earlier thread. this was b4 adding batteries and bearings. i was only running 5 cells. i should have taken pictures.

3series takumi
03-26-2003, 10:55 PM
i realize that the electronics i have are bigger than stock. i had no idea that the stock esc will allow FET stacking. kinda wish i would have know. does the stock esc have breaks. if it does i may think about trading it in. i got most of my stuff because my local hobby spots have nothing! took a long time just to find stuff for microRS4. i dont think that i will trade my receiver in though. i can drive my car further than i can see. i probably dont need that but oh well, i got a good price on it :P

rmyc
03-27-2003, 03:04 AM
i think you're able to stack fets on the X's esc .... there are 2 open slots for FETs i'm guessing the are for extra Fets...
dose any one know what kinda fets are on the esc????

here is a pic to show you guys

binaryterror
03-27-2003, 05:59 AM
Yeah bearings and more cells!!!!!

About the stock Electronics again...

Yes you can stack the FET's, tinyrc is looking into getting them.

The stock Reciever...it lacks range....about 50 feet outdoors and less indoors.

Now that you have it all set up though....really i would keep it that way....

bluemax_1
03-28-2003, 07:09 PM
As far as adding fets goes... looks like there's only room for 2 more V30010's on the board, wonder how much extra capacity that would allow? I know some mini-z nuts stack 20+ 7389 fets on the mini-z esc but with the mini-x fets mounted vertically like they are, I'm not sure how it would be possible to actually 'stack' more fets than the additional 2 slots allow. My real concern is with the motor though. I've heard of people burning out the motor with just 6-cells.

Running my mini-x on my kitchen floor and drifting full throttle quite a bit, the motor already gets pretty darn hot. can't imagine what it would be like if I put more juice through it, and I'm only running on the stock 5-cells at the moment.

So how did the Neo mag addition work out? Any noticeable improvements? I've heard that adding neo mags gives the motor more torque but doesn't really give you a higher top end, but I've also read somewhere that putting in the neo's makes the motor run cooler when you have more cells? Is this true? Wondering how that could be possible.

3series takumi
03-28-2003, 07:14 PM
i got a set of $9 neo magnets and my motor runs cool with 8cells now versus hot with the 6 cells originally

bluemax_1
03-28-2003, 07:18 PM
Well, I guess that answers my question. Where did you get the neo mags BTW? Any ideas why they make the motor run cooler and do you know if neo mags for mini-z motors will fit? I think NML has these neo mags that are super strong. Like the highest rated gauss for magnets that size. Supposedly allow your car to stick to the side of a real car even with the batts loaded:)

3series takumi
03-28-2003, 07:22 PM
the neo mags are more efficient than regular one. i got the miniz mags from tokyo tekki. i love their track. i was the only one there with a miniX. i was lapin people without the mags installed. i bet i can kill them now.

bluemax_1
03-28-2003, 07:39 PM
3series takumi, Cool! So you're now running neo mags in the can, with 8-cells and the Orion Flash and Novak esc? Nice. The only reason I could come up with to run a different esc from stock is to get the brakes. Seems the stock esc goes straight into reverse, whichi does make the car stop quicker, but it's not great for control for slowing down and I think it puts even more load on the motor.

Anyway, I think I'm going to order the neo mag and extra fets and see how those work out.

Also, did you really notice a huge difference in the car after putting in the bearing set? I just put mine in and I didn't really notice a huge improvement. A little maybe, but not too much. Then again, like I said, I'm running the stock 5-cells and I don't really have enough room to let hit top speed.

Wonder if it's possible to get a ball bearing can for this motor?

3series takumi
03-28-2003, 07:46 PM
i think i could have just had a bad set of bushing, but the bearings helped me out alot. it was about 10% faster and 20% faster in corners. i also had a problem with the wheel wobble but the bearings fixed that. have you tried loosining the diffs. i had my rear one too tight at one point, it could drift but was slow cornering and it put a load on the motor adding to the heat. right not i can drift but i can corner nicely with a slightly tight front and a slightly loose rear dif.

i hate these diff btw, they are nothin like my RS4 diffs. i cant wait for new ones like One-way diffs. i would try and make some if i new how they worked.

bluemax_1
03-28-2003, 08:28 PM
Even with the Xpress bearing set in, my wheels still wobble:( maybe that's why I'm not noticing a significant difference in performance.

As for the ball diffs on the mini-x, I agree with you. These aren't exactly the best things around. For one thing, they're a real pain to adjust. Mine came too tight as well and trying to loosen them to the right amount was frustrating. I think someone else mentioned this in a another thread as well that the diffs aren't too precise and at certain points in the rotation, will catch much easier. The difference between having a diff that just slips and does nothing and one that turns the whole drivetrain seems to be almost impossible to balance.

I think there was a post that recommended putting in a rubber washer in the diff to act as a kind of spring allowing you more turns between a locked diff and a spinning one. Haven't tried that but I can say, that the best I've managed to adjust my diff, it works properly most of the time but at some points in the rotation, it sometimes catches and spins the whole drivetrain and occasionally, (but less often) it does the opposite and just allows me to turn the one wheel with nothing else happening. So far that's the best I've managed to get my diffs adjusted. Not exactly the most precise construction.

Also, 3series takumi, how difficult was it to change the mags in the can? Any advice on doing this myself, i.e. things I want to be careful of so I don't end up breaking anything?

3series takumi
03-28-2003, 08:58 PM
installing the mags are very easy, all you need is a soldering iron and a small flathead screw driver. i would go to www.pn-racing.com then go to the technology section on the top and in that section they show you step by step how to do it

3series takumi
03-28-2003, 09:03 PM
i forgot to say that it is easier to remove the solder joint on the can instead of where the wire and brushes are if you have wires already on your motor. in the PN instructions they do the opposite. it doesnt really matter but it saves time if you only have to solder the capacitor to the can instead of the capacitor and the wire to the brush. i hope that wasnt confusing.

binaryterror
03-28-2003, 09:55 PM
Actually tinyrc.com has a sister site: www.miniz-racer.com

they have a squat can with ball bearing and the neo magnets....HUGE difference!

An the have the pn-racing carbon brushes as well!

3series takumi
03-28-2003, 09:57 PM
is there any way to rigging some bearings to the stock can. i have 4 extra 2x6mm bearing. i woudl love to put them to use

binaryterror
03-28-2003, 10:03 PM
from what i seen...it might be possible if you can dig out the stock CRAPPY bushing...it is night and day difference on the BB can and the busing can.

Definately work $9.90 from mini-zracer.com

3series takumi
03-28-2003, 10:05 PM
i am goin to try and put bears on the can, and after i screw it up (i am sure i will) i will order one. i just order it now. :P

bluemax_1
03-29-2003, 05:11 AM
Already getting the neo mags, and thanks for the info and links 3series takumi, looks like it's not too difficult to install the neo mags. Also going to probably try getting the bb can. Couple of other questions though. Is there any other way to mod the motor? I haven't taken one of these apart but I was wondering if there's some way you could drop in say, one of the PN racing armatures into this thing. Of course the motor shafts are quite different... I suppose I'll see if it's even possible when I open up the can myself. Would be nice to somehow use the PN-S03 motor and still have 4wd.

I suppose if I have no choice, I could always try one of those mods that the other guys have done to just have the gearshaft separate so I can try dropping in whatever insane motor catches my fancy.:D Hmmmm... I can see how these little things can quickly become an obsession that eat up lots of time and cash. Aaaargh! darn the Bit Char-G for reacquainting me with the R/C world!:)

3series takumi
03-29-2003, 12:47 PM
i have been lookin for a way to mod the motor too. i would love to put the s03 in the X. the only difference i can see it is that long rod. if there is a way of yankin that rod off then the moding can begin. i plan on opening my motor again and i will take pictures so maybe someone else can help. i am sure there has to be a way to pull the rod off or add a rod to the other motors. (bluemax_1) you said somethin about a separate shaft, what thread is that in. i would like to see that.

bluemax_1
03-29-2003, 03:09 PM
3series takumi, that was exactly what I was thinking about when considering a PN-S03 motor mod, but since I haven't pulled the mini-x motor can apart, I'm not sure if it's even feasible to somehow keep the armature but change the rod/motor shaft.

As for the thread, it's under 'shaft mod' the person who did it even has some pics so you can see what it looks like. Would allow you to use a 180 motor, or as large a motor as you're crazy enough to try to fit:D How about an all-motor 540 mini-x!:eek: Wouldn't even have place for the batteries almost:)

Of course though, if you take the time to do a mod like that, you could probably just go ahead and use one of NML's 30+mph mini-z motors. Should think that would be fast enough.

Sure would be nice to figure out how to just change the rod in the motors though. Would make for some nice mod possibilities, and still keep it LOOKING stock.

binaryterror
03-29-2003, 10:43 PM
The "rod" on the motors...is just a long armature shaft. You can't really pull it out...now if you knew a really good welder/machinist you could add more shaft to the small 130 motors.

Alternatively, the shaft mod is a decent idea...however...my mini-x already destroys quite a few mild mod mRS4's so i think a crazy 130 is outta the question for me..

You guys could also upgrade the stock with the magnets, the BB cans, and then hand wind the motor (it is currently 70T).

bluemax_1
03-30-2003, 06:14 AM
Oh well, so much or the idea of changing the shaft, although instead of welding a longer shaft attachment, I know there are some... hmmm... can't even remember what they're called but they're like sleeves that can be screwed onto the end of a shaft of specific diameter, which would allow you to add another length of same diameter shaft to the end. Basically allowing you to extend the shaft. Not sure how they'ld hold up under the continual torque placed on them by the motor though.

So binaryterror, what mods are you running on your mini-x and when you talk about destroying mild modded mRS4's do you mean in handling or in top speed as well? Any idea how fast your mini-x is capable of going?

I'm thinking I'd probably just go as far as getting neo mags, a bb can, adding the extra fets and maybe 8-cells with the diffs to take advantage of the extra torque as far as speed and power mods go, and then concentrate on handling mods.

So does anyone else find that their wheels still have play/wobble after installing the mini-x bearing set? Or are mine not quite up to spec?

binaryterror
03-30-2003, 08:02 AM
Bluemax...yes they do make collars that can be used to extend shafts...if you get some high quality ones you might be in business...hoever remember the part of a 130 you want to extend hangs out maybe 1/16" of an inch...I'll check with a good friend (welder/machinist) and see what he thinks can be done besides the welding.

As it stands my X has a squat BB can and the neo magnets and pn-racing carbon brushes (all available on mini-zracer.com) and i use the stock diffs (35T right?) and only the 6 cells right now. I ran a race with 4 mRS4's. 1 was bone stock, he was destroyed by all. 2 had 6 cell packs and the orion modified motor as mods, neither of these guys could handle the extra speed...i was a hair faster in the straights, and alot faster in corners as they bounced off the walls quite a bit. The other was like crazy chassis and motor mods, he could get me in the straights, but the corners the car wasn't set up right.

RE: wheels with play after BB's. This can be remedied by adding small shim washers to the axle shafts behind the axle pin. make sure you don't put too many in that it kills effieciency. They do have to be metal as the plastic set i had wore really fast.

Good luck and keep the X alive!

tinyrc
03-30-2003, 11:06 PM
Originally posted by bluemax_1
Well, I guess that answers my question. Where did you get the neo mags BTW? Any ideas why they make the motor run cooler and do you know if neo mags for mini-z motors will fit? I think NML has these neo mags that are super strong. Like the highest rated gauss for magnets that size. Supposedly allow your car to stick to the side of a real car even with the batts loaded:)

We have as or more powerful mags than NML, email at the Shop for info! ;)

btrc

tinyrc
03-30-2003, 11:06 PM
Originally posted by 3series takumi
i just went up to San Fran to the Tokyo Tekki shop to meet (DriftGOD) and shamed his twin turbo miniZ. it was so much fun after he left all the bad talk about miniX's in an earlier thread. this was b4 adding batteries and bearings. i was only running 5 cells. i should have taken pictures.

That's awesome! Did you post to the X thread on Mini-ZRacer.com!? :D

tinyrc
03-30-2003, 11:07 PM
Originally posted by rmyc
i think you're able to stack fets on the X's esc .... there are 2 open slots for FETs i'm guessing the are for extra Fets...
dose any one know what kinda fets are on the esc????

here is a pic to show you guys

http://tinyrc.com/shop/product.php?pid=453

;)

rmyc
04-01-2003, 10:14 AM
wow $8.00 bucks to add an extra 8amps of POWER.... that is cheap. prob the cheapest turbo you'll ever buy..
this sound great

thanks tinyrc

super_micro
04-01-2003, 09:12 PM
Hey 3series takumi what ever happened to those movies and pics that you promised along time ago. And also what will adding those pn-racing carbon brushes do.

binaryterror
04-01-2003, 09:33 PM
Carbon brushes are better at passing the electricity with less resistance...

I don't think they gained much, but with all the mods i did it was worth the tiny price (pun intended).