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irc
12-12-2002, 02:36 AM
I just finished mounting the Aktiv Shop Mercedes DTM body on my Rocket racer. The car looks so good I don't want to drive it, but I did and it handels great. I had to adjust the wheelbase a little further that the stock hole accepts but the car handels good with this long wheelbase. here is a pic....

binaryterror
12-12-2002, 06:58 AM
IRC...how would you say the DRR compares to the Mini-X and Mini-Z?

irc
12-12-2002, 12:49 PM
Comparing the DRR to the Mini X is tough. The Mini X is 4wd and the DRR is 2wd. both are good cars but the X will smoke the DRR when both are in stock form. The Mini Z has much nicer bodies but it does not have the performance potential the DRR does. The Mini Z TX is much better but the DRR has the 7.2v battery and 180 motor option the Z does not. I like them all and I think they all have + & - . I would run the DRR on a smooth surface or mainly a carpet track. The Mini X is good on all surfaces and the Mini Z is fun to run and doubles as a display model. Could someone else help with this comparison??

Siress
12-12-2002, 09:58 PM
OFFFFFF COURSE I DO!

The mini-x is really just a tinkerers toy. It has alot of adjustable options like a bigger car but for that its heavy and easily breakable. Also, from what I understand, the motor can't be changed. Although I would guess that you could modify it if you realy needed to. Its slow, really slow. If you put the same electronics, same size motor, and same size batteries in the DRR, Mini-X, and Mini-Z, the DRR would win due to weight factors. The biggest thing Mini-Z's having going for them is that they are already owned by most of the mini racers since they were out big first. Another thing is that they have the turbo option. But they strip servo gears bigtime with that.

irc
12-12-2002, 10:44 PM
Have you owned a Mini X? my stock Mini X with a 7.2 battery is anything but slow and it is no heavyer than the DRR? Also why would you strip servo gears if you added a turbo to the Z. Please IM not trying to disagree, just wanted to put in some more input. Are shop sells none of the above cars so IM not siding with any of them.:D

Siress
12-12-2002, 10:47 PM
I have actualy got to use 2 mini-q's. One of which did have a 6 volt mod to it. overall it is slower than the others. esp. in corners.

Siress
12-12-2002, 10:49 PM
BTW IRC
I am looking at your site right now

I LOVE the look of that Road Racer! I may have to make me a mini rc car now...wish I had a CNC machine, I have everything but.

irc
12-13-2002, 12:18 AM
Due to the longer wheelbase for the Benz the stock shock was not long enough. I found this oil filled adjustable shock for a mini Z and it works great. The car was hopping some untill I added it.

binaryterror
12-13-2002, 07:15 AM
Ok Siress...where'd you get the weights from? I read in Mini&Micro mag(which wasn't what we got), and did a weight test myself on my Mini-X with the included 5 cell pack and all electronics, body and it weighed 7.1 ounces. The stock DRR (my friend just picked up) weighed in at a much heftier 8.7 ounces.

Also what is so easily breakable on the Mini-X? The only thing i have managed to break is the front motor pinion, but that has been fixed with a new upper deck. (pictures soon guys!!!)

Also the stock DRR verses the stock Mini-X yeilds the X out in lead by far. This is because of the extra traction of the 4wd. So i ran my Mini-X as 2wd (2wd motor is the exact same as the 4wd motor, just short shafted) against the same stock DRR, results:
Mini-X and the DRR faught tightly, but i thought my Mini-X did better in the acceleration off the corners, while his was more stuck to the corner and much slower to get off the corner.

**(note these our my friends and my findings, they were tested on a fair surface for both cars. We each took turns racing both cars to get the feel.)**

Scar
12-13-2002, 11:01 AM
VERYYY NICE IRC!

I like the way it looks and I am not a big Merc fan HAHA!

Siress
12-13-2002, 09:08 PM
well of course, ANY 1/24 scale RC car will beat a stock DRR! The stock DRR is a pos. Its the potential that this car has that is so great. You get a stock DRR, put in a 180 motor ($25) and a NiMH 7.2volt 700mah pack ($16.50 from wal-mart, u have to solder them together) and the DRR will smoke ANY stock 1/24 scale car. Add foams to this and you get great traction to farther increase your performance.

irc
12-14-2002, 01:59 AM
Not to dog the DRR or start a my car is faster than yours but I dont think it will smoke the WWS car or the Aktiv car. These cars come with 180 motors, foam tires and the Aktiv comes with bearings. They also are set up for a 7.2 battery pack and the Aktiv has an aluminum motor mount (of course) To be honest my old Tamtec will smoke all of these cars:D

lbrin
12-14-2002, 04:19 PM
IRC, what motor, battery and wheels/tires are you using there?

l

irc
12-14-2002, 10:00 PM
I have 2 DRR cars and this one is running the ABC 180 motor, 600mAH NIMH battery pack and ABC foam tires on painted stock DRR wheels.

Siress
12-14-2002, 11:55 PM
Ok, I have been needing to ask this question but just havent had the time. Can I get the DRR aluminum wheels and mount ABC foam tires on it and actualy have them fit with the same width?

rmyc
12-18-2002, 02:01 AM
i'm planing to get a ~1/24 rc, but i'm debating on two cars:
the Mini-Z or RocketRacer??

what i'm looking for is the fastest car( some thing to smoke 'em neighborhood kids running and their tycos)

as far as i know the stock Zs are faster than the Stock DRRs

but which of them are faster ,when supped up to the max
and how much faster??

irc
12-18-2002, 02:13 AM
The DRR will be less money to hop up and will be faster!

binaryterror
12-18-2002, 07:22 AM
Not to push the Mini-X, but stock it will beat both the DRR and the Mini-Z...however there isn't alot of aftermarket parts that fit without work.

Siress
12-20-2002, 11:52 PM
the best ~1/24 rc car is the DTM SP/DRR (same car basicly but the DTM is better overall but the price diffrence is worth getting the DRR insted)

binaryterror
12-22-2002, 11:16 AM
The DRR was based off a really old version of something similar to the DTM, but NOT the SP. The SP is totally different.

Also Dynamite did not rip off of ABC, they licensed the use of the old design, hence ABC dropping it, because it was a total POS compared to the new DMT SP.

Also the DRR might be cool for a cheap price, but it is not and never will be a DTM SP.

pmlabrier
01-05-2003, 05:04 AM
IRC,

earlier in this topic you mentioned that you replaced the stock rear shock (or Rear Dampner as Dynamite calls it) with a "oil filled adjustable shock for a mini Z". Where di you get this part? is there a part number associated with it and how much was it?

I am having the same trouble. I am making 1/25 & 1/24 plastic models that I would like to mount on my DRR. I am having to extend the chasis to its longest setting and the stock shock is not long enough. Or at least the spring isn't.

Thanks,

Paul

kev71H
01-11-2003, 02:14 AM
ORION elite corless
7.2v LITHIUM ION Battery (2 cell) 1500mah
75mhz reciever (taken out of plastic casing and schrink wrapped
GM V6 ESC w/brake
Tamiya firm foams
Carbon fiber bumpers
Jaguar body

hope ya like

irc
01-11-2003, 02:19 AM
Nice, That car must fly! IM running that same body on my DTM+4.

kev71H
01-11-2003, 02:19 AM
UNDER the hood..

pmlabrier
01-11-2003, 02:30 AM
That is definitely one SWEET DRR. I have a couple questions for you though.

First, what type of tubing is that you are using on the body mounts? I do not like the little clips!

Next, it appeasr that you have removed the rear dampner/shock. Did you do something to replace it or are you just running without it.

and last, are you using the stock chasis parts or have any of them been upgraded to graphite or aluminum.

Thanks for your help, I am just getting started with my DRR and looking at what I want to mod first.

Paul

kev71H
01-11-2003, 03:07 AM
Thanks for the compliment pmlabrier, I appreciate it!

Your answers.....

Toobing..........Standard RC aircraft toobing (pressed down with some effort..its not bad...and verrry effective.

Running without rear damper. So far..the track we run on (huge slot car track at www.slotcar.net does not require much damperage. You will find that its pretty stiff as it is with no dampering.


All stock chasis parts (but not the carbon fiber bumpers I added in addition to the stock chasis)

Hoping to get the full bearing set soon (at a good price hopefully)

lbrin
01-11-2003, 06:29 PM
kev71H,

Where'd you get the body?

lbrin

kev71H
01-12-2003, 01:23 AM
BODY................(genetics) LOL Just kiddn'

The body is the Jaguar body from a ABC car. Slot car decals

thanks for the mention!

bigbamboo
01-12-2003, 06:09 PM
kev71H
THose lead weights on the back of the motor mount? Or a heat sink? Also, with the foams how much weight is needed to increase grip?
bamboo

kev71H
01-13-2003, 12:13 AM
HI Bamboo,,

NOPE>....Not lead weights.......that plate is a protective CARBON FIBER plate. (we race on a track that cars can get rear ended many times..)

** The Dinamite Rocket Racer's motor is exposed to everything in the back end. I got hit by a mini-z and the motor moved up slightly and made a bunch of friction on the pinion and spur gear. Had to bring it in and fix it...so now I have a protective carbon fiber plate there to keep anything from hitting the motor from the rear.

MicroRCEngineering
01-13-2003, 08:24 PM
Hi, I would like to know where I may buy the DTM CLK body from. Any tips would be greatly appreciated.

irc
01-13-2003, 09:20 PM
We Stock the one that you see in the start of this thread.

MicroRCEngineering
01-15-2003, 07:00 PM
Thanks, would you mind sending me an email on pricing, and body types?

nomotorlimit@hotmail.com

thanks.