zzmods
03-12-2005, 02:33 PM
Ok well I wasn't sure if I should post this here or in the mods section, but since this mod is only for the MT I decided to put it here. First of all, something similar to this has been mentioned before but the methods posted at the time where just ideas and nobody has posted any results from performing this mod. The mod included drilling holes in the pcb cover to allow the suspension rods to travel farther to give you an added 1/16" travel. Well this does not work because the pcb cover does not limit these rods travel. The rods themselves do.
If you look carefully at the rods the springs are mounted on, you will find a flare about 1/2" down from the top. This flare prevents the rods from traveling freely through the hole (labeled "B" on the pic below). The bottom section of this rod (labeled "A" on pic below) still sticks out about 1/8" when the front wheels are presses down and suspension fully compressed. Some people have clipped this off to give some added clearance and if you have done this, you cannot perform my suspension mod for obvious reasons. Also, if you have cut any part of your pcb cover out in the area circled in the second pic you cannot perform my mod. The pcb cover must be in stock condition.
OK, lets run through a true FULL travel mod.
http://tinyrc.com/forums/images/zzmods-mtmod2.jpg http://tinyrc.com/forums/images/zzmods-mtmod.jpg
Tools Needed
-----------------
3/32" drill bit
#1 phillips screwdriver
1) First remove your trucks body cover.
2) Remove the two screws holding down the pcb cover and remove the cover (set somewhere safe).
3) flip you truck upside down and remove the two screws located at the front of the chassis (set somewhere safe).
4) Pull the chassis open just enough so you can slide the suspension rod out of the hole labeled "B" in the pic (recommended you do just one wheel at a time).
5) Remove the spring and set it aside for the moment, now using the drill bit, bore the hole out enough to slide drill bit through freely. Blow loose shavings out.
6) Now take the spring and give it a little stretch and place it back on the rod. Pull chassis open enough to slide thr rod back in the bored hole and squeeze the chassis back shut.
7) Now test the suspension to make sure it travels FREELY. In point "A" in the pic, the suspension rod should be flush at the bottom if done properly.
8) Repeat steps 4-7 on the other front wheel.
9) If both front tires now travel to their fullest potential, replace the two screws in the bottom of the chassis. Place pcb cover back on and replace their screws.
10) now test you suspension again. The suspension rods should travel all the way until they hit the pcb cover. This still allows point "A" in the pic to travel until flush when fully depressed. If the pcb cover was not in place, fully depressing the wheels fully may make them pop out of place so it is good that the pcb cover stops them where it does.
11) If all is good, replace your body and enjoy an extra 1/8" of suspension travel!
If you look carefully at the rods the springs are mounted on, you will find a flare about 1/2" down from the top. This flare prevents the rods from traveling freely through the hole (labeled "B" on the pic below). The bottom section of this rod (labeled "A" on pic below) still sticks out about 1/8" when the front wheels are presses down and suspension fully compressed. Some people have clipped this off to give some added clearance and if you have done this, you cannot perform my suspension mod for obvious reasons. Also, if you have cut any part of your pcb cover out in the area circled in the second pic you cannot perform my mod. The pcb cover must be in stock condition.
OK, lets run through a true FULL travel mod.
http://tinyrc.com/forums/images/zzmods-mtmod2.jpg http://tinyrc.com/forums/images/zzmods-mtmod.jpg
Tools Needed
-----------------
3/32" drill bit
#1 phillips screwdriver
1) First remove your trucks body cover.
2) Remove the two screws holding down the pcb cover and remove the cover (set somewhere safe).
3) flip you truck upside down and remove the two screws located at the front of the chassis (set somewhere safe).
4) Pull the chassis open just enough so you can slide the suspension rod out of the hole labeled "B" in the pic (recommended you do just one wheel at a time).
5) Remove the spring and set it aside for the moment, now using the drill bit, bore the hole out enough to slide drill bit through freely. Blow loose shavings out.
6) Now take the spring and give it a little stretch and place it back on the rod. Pull chassis open enough to slide thr rod back in the bored hole and squeeze the chassis back shut.
7) Now test the suspension to make sure it travels FREELY. In point "A" in the pic, the suspension rod should be flush at the bottom if done properly.
8) Repeat steps 4-7 on the other front wheel.
9) If both front tires now travel to their fullest potential, replace the two screws in the bottom of the chassis. Place pcb cover back on and replace their screws.
10) now test you suspension again. The suspension rods should travel all the way until they hit the pcb cover. This still allows point "A" in the pic to travel until flush when fully depressed. If the pcb cover was not in place, fully depressing the wheels fully may make them pop out of place so it is good that the pcb cover stops them where it does.
11) If all is good, replace your body and enjoy an extra 1/8" of suspension travel!