View Full Version : 1/10 scale motor.

02-25-2004, 08:15 AM
GUYS. i have this Krazy idea. im thinking of putting a stock 1/10 motor in the mini x. i ripped the armature off the stock motor and left the rod.. i have the idea of putting the motor on top of where the 130 motor used to be then secure it. a big gear will be used as spur gear and a smaller 1 in the middle of the rod.. the size of the gear should fill up the space inbetween. any opinions?

02-25-2004, 03:46 PM
My friend put a 180 in his but found it had too much power running only 2 wd.

There are plenty of fast small motors around so why do this unless you have one lying around you are not using?

02-26-2004, 04:08 AM
You could try to mount a larger motor onto the X, like Mr. Bigshot did for the xmod. This involved using a custom mount, with a third gear mounted where the original motor gear would be.


02-26-2004, 06:33 AM
i am considering a 180 cuz i have one from an old spoilt toothbrush.. anyway, it's gonna be 4wd so traction is less of an issue compared to 2wd..what size is the micro rs4 using? i think the 1/10 scale will rip because of it's tremedous torque and if geared properly it'll have good top speed.. are 180s good? they look kinda sucky with the finger brushes and sealed endbell..

02-26-2004, 11:32 AM
I'm not sure what brand motor he used, I'll ask him. I had already found the Mr. Bigshot Xmod and that guy did a lot with that car!

I think its a good idea to experiment with everything to see what works the best. The best thing I can do for my mini x is to learn how to drive it better.

We are looking at different sources for all types of mini x mods and hop up parts. As we find the ones that work I'll let you know.

02-27-2004, 04:23 AM
you probably don't need to mount the 180 motor on top of the 130 can. Does anyone know if there's any way of using the stock spindle in a 180 can? I would personally just mod the chassis to run the 180 as a 2wd motor, like mde's buddy! I have a Speed 300 motor lying about, and all this talk has got me thinking of doing a similar mod ...

How about using a stock shaft and an empty can (no armature or magnets, maybe just use the cover), and putting a 36T gear on it (or something similar as long as it's as big as possible without interfering with the ground etc.) You could then stcik a 6 T pinion gear on the 300 motor, and see how that works. I think this is the setup used with the Xmods, but I havent' got one to verify.

This wat the motor has less work to do , as there's more reduction, so ther should be less heatingand stuff...

02-27-2004, 07:16 AM
i ripped the armature and left the rod(not even the can) and the gears. i bought and attached another gear in the middle where the pinion is meshed with.. i now currently only have a 180 motor.. i will buy a 500 motor or something big tmr..

02-27-2004, 07:31 AM
If you've that much done, then I would go ahead and test the 180 motor first before buying a 540 motor. I'm assuming you're not using stock electronics? Can you get the 180 to fit on top?

02-27-2004, 07:36 AM
it now looks like this...But i want to use a bigger motor.. im worried about the gears thou, they are nylon and alittle flimsy http://www.angelfire.com/droid/ben1112/piggyback.jpg

02-27-2004, 07:39 AM
The 130 can would make the best mount for the shafn and would give you somewhere to fasten the 180 can to. What size gears are you using?

02-27-2004, 07:46 AM
im using 1:1 on the pinion and shaft. if i had made it like yours, the ratio will be changed greatly... you forgot that by using the original pinion size, there will be too much torque.. i need to secure the shaft as without the can, it can moove about. with the car, i may need 3 gears which makes things complicated..

02-27-2004, 07:56 AM
Oh, I'm gearing down on purpose, I don't think that the F&R Diffs provide enough reduction. I thik you would burn out a motor trying to run it without reduction, even the stock motor get real hot after a few mins. the numbers I used are just an example, you could use a bigger gear out of the 180, (say 16-26 T) then you probably wouldn't need a 3rd gear.

02-27-2004, 08:22 AM
i was planning to put a higher gear when i use 1/10 scale motor(what size is that?) but right now im doing what you mentioned in the first place... the original pinion as i dun have a pinion puller...

02-27-2004, 08:42 AM
most 1/10 sclae motor are 540 class , (about an inch in diameter, cylindrical) so you'll need something bigger to bridge the gap then. I would be worried about the gear on the motor meshing ok with the gear on the shaft, but if the both came form the spin brush, they should be the same pitch

02-27-2004, 08:54 AM
they look okay to me(meshing), but can the nylon gears handle it? im thinking of this..

02-27-2004, 09:26 AM
You will strip them eventually, especially if you're gonna go with the 540 motor. I was thinking of using a metal 'Big' gear, Tamiya make these. you can get pinions gear up to 26T made of Delrin also, which is harder than nylon.

02-27-2004, 09:29 AM
ok... i will either get a huge packets of gears before i manage to track down metal gears.. are industrial grade 540 motors same as 1/10 scale rc stock motors?

02-27-2004, 10:01 AM
not 100% certain, there are probably differences in curent draw, voltage requirements, RPM range, Peak RPM, etc...

I'm sure there's someone around here who knows about 1/10 scale motors...

02-27-2004, 11:04 AM
An industrial grade 540 has a sealed endbell. A "stock" RC motor has an open endbell, with replaceable brushes. Usually.

The biggest problem you'll have with the 1/10 is weight. If you mount it to the left or right, you'll have a balance issue. Mount it above the shaft, you'll have a high CG, and have roll issues. It'll definitely be quick, though. Oh, and achieving a suitable gear mesh will be tough, given the radius of the can. You may discover that a large enough gear on the shaft will extend below the current boundaries of the chassis. It may require a third gear between the pinion and spur on the drive shaft. No matter how you look at it, its going to require some fabrication to be worthwhile. The stock suspension will be totally ineffectual with that sort of weight. I'd really suggest a smaller motor.

For the 180 size, I highly recommend looking for Tamiya mini 4wd gears. They're cheap, easy to get, and strong (enough). You also have some flexibility in gear ratio. For the motor mounts, look around for the motor mount to any of the 1/24 pan cars. That will allow you to adjust your motor position, so your mesh is correct.


02-27-2004, 11:28 AM
hadn't thought of mounting the motor to the side (d'oh!)

Nice Pan chassis, though!

3series takumi
02-27-2004, 03:42 PM
i ran an hpi micro mod in my car and it was a rocket. the only problem was it was way too much power for such a little car. it would go into crasy spins. also the the motor would literally twist the car when it was spinning it up. i then tried to put a team orion micro elite motor and that ripped apart all of the work i did. it killed my hollow alum drive shaft i made. but once again it was fast as hell. i am not back to stock... well actually it is not running cause i am using the esc in my m18

02-28-2004, 02:06 AM
can you pls guide me 3st? im think of using a hpi micro modified...

02-28-2004, 02:09 AM
will double 180 motor be feasible? what kind of places other than online can i find materials to bulid a custom chassis?
will 16v 4700uf cap do good to a big motor>?