View Full Version : The DIP Switch Mod

08-18-2003, 08:49 PM
For ages I've been looking for a switch that is
small enough to be able to put on my little beasts
to be able to turn them ON and OFF.

I know that the car doesn't really NEED a switch,
but hey! that's never stopped me before. ;)

Basically the goal is to be able to take the
battery out of circuit and charge it without any
excess current drain from the PCB/lights.

Theoretically you should get a slightly increased
runtime from the extra charge the battery would
get but I believe this difference would only be small.
Another advantage is to be able to turn the car off
and pick up later with no issues of battery loss.

So here it is, my DIP Switch mod.

Find the right switch

Here's a DIP switch, not much to look at hey.


This is obviously too big, but you can saw off
a single switch! I used a metal saw to do this
since the cutting blade is finer and causes less
damage to the surrounding area. If everything works
you should have some pieces like this.


The flywheel helps give you an idea of the switchís

Where do I mount the bloody thing?

The best place I found was underneath the engine well.
This means the switch is out of sight, out of mind.
I've drilled two holes in the vertical part of the
chassis adjacent to the engine well. This is where
I'll feed to wires back to the battery.


Here's a side view to help give you an idea of how
the switch is mounted. You can see from this side profile
that the clearance to the ground is juuuuuuuust fine, yeah!


The little metal ends of the switch were cut back till only
2mm long. I then soldered some enamelled wire to the ends.
I use this wire 'cause it's flexible and small.

If you want to use normal insulated wire that's fine but find some that is thin enough 'cause the wires could rub against the rear axle causing all sorts of problems.

Here's two pictures showing the bugger all clearance between
the wire and rear axle.



Now feed the wires up and over one of the notches in the chassis
as shown below. These notches are on all classes of legit bits.


Solder time!

Ok, first thing to do now is to remove the -VE/GND/NEGATIVE power wire from the PCB and battery terminal.

Now solder one of the wires from the switch (doesn't matter which one) to the battery terminal and the other wire to the -VE terminal on the PCB.

Below you can see (barely!) where I soldered the wire from the DIP switch.


Once that is done put the car back together and all should be cool.




08-18-2003, 08:56 PM
do you have any really close up pics of the bottom of the chassis, like where the wires come out?
Where are the wires connected?

08-18-2003, 09:03 PM
Originally posted by eman1
do you have any really close up pics of the bottom of the chassis, like where the wires come out?
Where are the wires connected?

I believe it's all covered in the original post man, just read it a bit more carefully. I know the pics aren't the best but I don't have a digital camera, If I can borrow one I'll do some more pics.

Originally posted by eman1
If its before the PCB then i guess this doesnt matter but is your car a booster?

No it ain't a booster and what type of car it is doesn't matter.


08-18-2003, 09:45 PM
I really like this. I never knew that you could slice up a DIP Switch Board like that. It's cool that it fits under the drive wheel so snug like that.

08-18-2003, 09:50 PM
Yeah, the profile is just right and it fits really well. That's why I went with the DIP switch.


08-18-2003, 10:59 PM
Good stuff ph2t!

Movin on over...

08-18-2003, 11:37 PM
Thanks hulkster. :)


08-18-2003, 11:45 PM
nice job! speaking of tiny switches - here's more on that subject.

tiny under mount light switch (http://www.rcmod.com/mod_lightswitch.html)

08-19-2003, 10:05 PM
Nice work ph2t!!

I've thought about using a dip switch for lights, but I always just ripped the lights out before I got that far, because they messed with my handling.

But switching your car off has it's advantages, I never run NiMH batteries all the way down, because I've read they like to be stored with at least a 1 volt left in them, but then when I go to run another car on the same frequncy, all my cars are trying to drive off the desk. So a switch might come in handy, and since it's all tucked out of the way like that, I see no reason not to do it, except that I'm too lazy right this moment.